Vehicle Service/Maintenance

What You Need To Know

Much uncertainty exist amongst vehicle owners when it comes to answering the following questions:

What is a vehicle service?
Why is it so important to have your vehicle serviced?
When/how often, should I service my vehicle?
How long does a vehicle service take?
What should a basic, a minor and a major vehicle service include?

In what follows, I hope to give a satisfying answer to each of these questions; answers that will leave you with adequate knowledge to act responsibly when it comes to caring for your vehicle and having it serviced and maintained regularly.

What is a vehicle service?

A vehicle service is a series of maintenance procedures carried out by a vehicle owner (basic) and a service centre (mandatory and specialised) at a certain time interval. This interval may depend on various factors that I will touch upon when I answer the question “When/how often, should I service my vehicle?”

Every vehicle owner should exercise basic vehicle maintenance, SAC will supply some tips in this regard later on. When it comes to a mandatory and specialised vehicle service, it can be broken up into two types: the minor service and the major services. A minor car services generally include looking after the small things in your vehicle, such as changing the oil and oil filters, among other things. The major service is in stark contrast to this because it entails a more comprehensive service and is far more focused than a minor service. In this article SAC will be discussing the most common elements of these two services by answering the question “What should a basic, a minor and a major vehicle service include?”

Why is it so important to have your vehicle serviced?

Your vehicle is holding your safety and that of everybody inside your vehicle. You surely do not want your vehicle to let you down and risk the safety of your life and that of others around you! Caring for your car should be the same as taking care of your own health. Regular check-ups at a medical doctor and regular services at a reputable service centre such as SAC Service Centre, will render the same result: peace of mind regarding personal and vehicle health.

Regular servicing makes financial sense because it will identify and address potential faults before they result in vehicle breakdowns that are very costly. Early detection of potential faults will result in prevention, and at SAC we know that prevention is better than cure. If you look after your vehicle’s health, you may just extend the living years of both you and your vehicle. This therefore seems to be the right thing to do, but owners may also have another motivational force driving them to have their vehicles regularly serviced: the vehicle warranty.

If your car is still new, regular servicing will keep the warranty valid. Irregular or a lack of vehicle service in this regard, will render your vehicle’s warranty null and void. If (when) this happens, you may be sure of encountering costly repairs and maintenance down the line. Keeping to the warranty and having regular services conducted, has another benefit: a vehicle with a complete service history will add credibility about the condition of your vehicle as well as to the resale value thereof.

Regular servicing will also extend the life of your vehicle’s mechanical components, so to wrap it up; regular servicing not only increases the safety and roadworthiness, but also the reliability and lifespan of your vehicle. Keeping up with, or neglecting regular vehicle maintenance can make the difference between your vehicle being safe, being fuel efficient and running smoothly or not.

When/how often, should I service my vehicle?

Inevitable yet unnoticeable wear and tear is the biggest contributor to mechanical failure. It is therefore very important that you maintain and look after your vehicle on a regular basis. The question many owners still ask, is how regular? There are several factors in play when deciding when and how often your vehicle should receive a service.

Factors such as the age of your vehicle, the distance you drive daily, the surfaces and quality of the road on which you travel, as well as how well you maintain your vehicle, will all play a big part in deciding when to service your vehicle. Operating your vehicle under “adverse operating conditions”, will also be a determining factor. These conditions includes the frequent towing of caravans and/or loaded trailers, continuous stopping and starting of the vehicle, as well as driving at high speeds. A vehicle operated under these conditions may require more frequent servicing than the ones driven once a week to a shopping mall and back.

ost vehicles also have a service schedule and different vehicle manufacturers may require different service intervals. You may find these suggested service intervals and service operations inside your vehicle’s logbook. It needs mentioning that many modern vehicles have an on-board computer that will show when a service is due.

Depending on how much you drive, it is consensus that a car should receive a service at least once a year but preferably every six months (twice a year). At SAC, leader in the field of automotive servicing, we suggest that you have your vehicle undergo a Minor Service (every 10 000 km); an Intermediate Service (every 20 000 km) and a Major Service (every 40 000 km). Each service builds upon the previous service level. It is also important to understand that a vehicle’s service DOES NOT rely on how you feel about the vehicle’s performance. Everything in the vehicle may feel okay but that does not mean that everything is okay. Believing this will only give you a false sense of security, which is why it is important to have your vehicle maintained and serviced on a regular basis. Service intervals are guidelines, so if you notice any underperformance from your vehicle before it is due for a service, then bring it in to your nearest SAC Service Centre for an inspection.

How long does a vehicle service take?

The service of a vehicle may vary depending on the make and model of the vehicle. The duration will also depend on the type of service your vehicle will receive. The three service sessions offered by SAC will have different time frames in which it will be concluded. A Minor Service involves the least of work and can be conducted within a very short period of time (an hour or so); an Intermediate Service is likely to take longer and it is therefore better to leave the vehicle and come back after a few hours. A Major Service requires work that is far more complex. During such a service, you will usually be required to leave your vehicle at the service centre for the entire day, if not longer.

What should a basic, a minor and a major vehicle service include?

Your car needs regular tender love and care to keep it on the road and there are many things that vehicle owners can do to extend and improve the life of their vehicles. Conducting regular inspections by yourself can help in the early identification of small faults. Among these inspections are: checking the oil (maintaining the correct oil level but also to see when there is a loss of oil, which may indicate a bigger issue); inspecting the tyres (ensure correct tyre pressure, sufficient tread and signs of wear and tear); testing the battery (a faulty battery can leave you stranded so have it tested regularly); checking the air filter (to ensure it is not clogged up). Early identification and rectification can make the chance of a breakdown/accident much less likely.

Regardless of how well you care for your vehicle, every vehicle requires professional servicing. Any service should at least include the following essential checks:

Fluid levels

Ensuring that the oil, coolant, power steering, gearbox, clutch and brake fluids are to their required levels.

Brake system

Inspecting the brake pads and discs for excessive wear.

Oil leaks

Inspecting around and underneath the engine, gearbox and differentials for any leaks.

Radiator

Ensuring that the fan kicks in at the predetermined temperature and checking for any leaks or blockages.

Battery and warning lights

These are tested to ensure they function properly.

Minor Service

At SAC, the leader in the field of automotive servicing, we do not deviate from this. In fact, our Minor Service package includes more than what has been mentioned. All our services include labour and any consumables used. During the 10 000 km service, our well-trained mechanics will inspect the following on your vehicle:

• Brake & warning lights
• Front & rear brakes
• Horn inspection
• Wiper blades operation & condition
• Lighting system

• Engine oil & leaks
• Manual transmission oil leaks
• Prop shaft joints
• Rear differential oil leaks

• Tyre condition check
• Tyre pressure check
• Washer bottles
• Air filter

Intermediate Service

During the Intermediate Service, conducted after 20 000 km service, our well-trained mechanics will see to it that the following aspects on your vehicle receives attention:

• Brake & warning lights
• Lighting system
• Horn inspection
• Wiper blades operation & condition
• Window washer fluid level
• Brake & clutch pedal (squeaks & adjustments)
• Brake & handbrake inspection
• Radiator maintenance
• Lubricate latches & hinges
• Battery & terminal

• Hydraulic fluid levels
• Cooling systems levels & leaks
• Fan belt inspection
• Replacement off al filters
• Accelerator pedal check for throttle opening
• Cambelt inspection
• Service off all grease nipples (Prop shaft, suspension etc.)
• Sump plug wiped & tightened
• Oil leak check on sump plug & filters during vehicle start

• Tyre condition & pressure
• Oil level
• Water level
• Oil & service decals on
• Road test
• Aircon check
• Gearbox leaver check
• Diff level check
• Side shaft oil leak check
• Service book stamp

Major Service

During a Major Service, conducted after 40 000 km, our well-trained mechanics will inspect and attend to the following on your vehicle:

• Dyno diagnostic test (before & after service)
• Brake & warning lights inspection
• Lighting systems
• Horn inspection
• Wiper operation & blade condition
• Clutch & brake pedal checked for squeaks
• Glow plugs removal test
• Glow plug operation test
• Radiator maintenance
• Lubricate all latches & hinges
• Window washer fluid
• Battery & terminals
• Hydraulic fluid levels
• Power steering fluid (replaced every 80 000 km)
• Brake fluid replacement
• Auto transmission fluid replacement (where applicable)
• Transfer case & differential fluids replaced (where applicable)
• Wheel bearing grease check (replaced every 80 000 km)

• Engine oil replacement
• Oil filter replacement
• Cooling systems levels & leaks check (fluid replaced every 80 000 km)
• General Inspection & replacement of all filters
• Accelerator pedal inspection for full throttle opening
• Cam belt inspection
• Tappet clearance reset
• Check top dead centre (TDC) mark
• Check pulley for play
• Brakes & handbrake operation
• Universal joints inspection
• Tie-rods, links & steering box inspection
• Grease nipples serviced (prop shaft, suspension etc.)
• Inspect cable routing
• Sump plug (tightened & wiped)
• Inspect exhaust for leaks, routing & rattles
• Gearbox levels checked & inspected for leaks

• Inspect shocks for leaks & tighten – REPORT
• Check diff oil level & for water contamination & leaks on side shafts
• Lubricate all underbody moving points (Chassis points were applicable)
• Wheel caps & nuts on
• Check all tyre pressure (spare wheel included)
• Torque wheel nuts
• Check if spare wheel is tightened
• Check new oil and water levels
• Clean water trap
• Check air on
• Old parts in vehicle
• Oil & service decals in
• SAC decal on
• Service book stamped
• Inspect vehicle for oil marks
• Road test (rattles, wind noise, steering, straight, braking stability & noises)

At Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of automotive repair and maintenance, we know our business, and when it comes to having your vehicle serviced, you can rest assured that you will receive nothing less than outstanding service. Our doors are wide open to welcome your vehicle for the service it requires.

Brakes

Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting

Steves Auto Clinic is a leader in the field of automotive repair and vehicle servicing. We employ qualified mechanics (technicians) who stand willing and ready at our Service Centres countrywide to assist you with any vehicle related issues

At Steves Auto Clinic, we care about you and your vehicle, and we feel that it is just fair to keep our readers informed about the various components in their vehicles, components that are essential for the smooth and safe functioning of their vehicles and components that need a fair share of maintenance for this same reason. We acknowledge the fact that not everybody is as informed as the next person is, and experience taught us that very few people know how to care for most of these components or even how to troubleshoot potential problems with them in advance. As a service centre that cares about our customers, we want to rectify this. Fear of the unknown may cause anxiety during daily road trips that is why we will highlight some aspects related specifically to one of these components today, namely the brakes but also the entire braking system.

We want to make it clear that this article does not serve the purpose of instilling unnecessary and unfounded doubt under our readers regarding the topic at hand; this article serves the primary purpose of informing our readers about care, maintenance and troubleshooting of the braking system. As was said, we want to remove any anxiety caused by the unknown. In doing so, SAC touches on the following during this discussion:

What are brakes and how do they function?
Why and how should you take care of your vehicle’s brakes?
Know the signs of faulty brakes.

Without any further ado, let us jump right into this discussion.

What are brakes and how do they function?

The primary purpose of your vehicle’s engine is to create power to turn the wheels; the wheels need to be steered into different directions, which is why you have a steering system. With motion and the ability to steer your vehicle, you also need the ability to stop at some point in time and that is why the braking system is so important. The ONLY function of the brakes are to enable you to stop your vehicle; without this function or the proper working of this function you can be sure to find yourself in deep trouble.

The braking system in your vehicle may either make use of the drum system or the disc (rotor) system. In the drum system, brake shoes are used and in the disc system, brake pads are used. Each of these (shoes/pads) offer its own benefits and drawbacks. Let us have a quick look at these.

Brake shoes

Made from steel that have a curved shape and has a coat of friction material on the one side, called the brake lining. Asbestos was the most commonly used material, but nowadays the lining is made of synthetic aramid. Brake shoes are cheap but it generates a lot more heat during the friction process than in the case of the new brake pad system.

Brake pads

The most commonly used nowadays; it does not generate lots of heat, is more expensive than brake shoes but it last longer, and is more efficient. The disc brake system provides better braking performance than drum brakes because they stay much cooler (dissipate heat much better) under extreme use.

When it comes to buying brake pads for your disc brake system, you have more choices than you may initially have thought to have. Brake pads consist of a flat piece of steel covered with a thick piece of friction material applied to a single side. The friction material can consist of one of the following:

Semi-metallic

Metal shavings being held together by resin; these are the cheapest and most commonly used brake pads but they also cause the most wear and tear on the rotors of the vehicle.

Organic materials

Environmentally friendly brake pads, surely the quietest among the lot but also the quickest to wear out.

Ceramic

These are the most expensive brake pads, very lightweight yet very durable.

As a valued SAC Customer you should now have a better understanding of what the brakes are. We still have to look at how they function by asking what happens “behind the scenes” when I push down on the brake pedal? To describe the working of the brake system, it may be useful to supplement the discussion with the following image:

The underlying principle in either the drum or the disc system is the same. As soon as you exert downward pressure on the brake pedal, the master cylinder (hydraulic system – consisting of a liquid called brake fluid) will multiply this pressure. This in turn will cause the callipers (in the case of the disk system) to push the brake pads against the rotor, or in the case of the drum system, to push the brake shoes against the drum attached to the hub of the wheel. In both of these cases, this frictional resistance then slows the vehicle down or stops it.

We hope that this would give you a better understanding of the entire brake system, let us therefore move on to the next part of our discussion.

Why and how should you take care of your vehicle’s brakes?

The single most important reason when answering the “why” question will be because of human safety. Once your vehicle is in motion, there is nothing more important than having the ability to stop that vehicle in a quick and efficient manner when required. Having an insufficiently working braking system will hamper this process, so you have to take care of your braking system as a whole. Remember, a well-maintained vehicle is safer, reliable and last longer than a vehicle that is not.

An overview of the working of the braking system, should give you an idea of all the wear and tear that takes place during each application of the brakes. It is therefore not surprising that you should replace both the pads, the shoes as well as the rotors every few years. It is true that rotors and callipers can last for a long time, considering that you maintain them regularly. Callipers nonetheless have two archenemies: corrosion and heat. If you fail to look after your vehicle’s callipers, corrosion may set in and leaking may accompany this. This is not good for your braking system so please take note of this, and phone a trusted SAC dealership closest to you. – click here –

Brake pads/shoes do not last as long as rotors and callipers because they wear down much faster. One should always ensure that they do not wear down completely because this will only damage your rotors much faster. One damaged part in any system may seriously damage another healthy part, especially when metal starts to grind on another piece of metal, and we reiterated the importance of a well-functioning brake system in the beginning, because as the driver of the vehicle your life depends on this.

Looking after these components, maintaining and replacing them is therefore essential. One aspect should however be kept in mind, namely that the replacing of brakes will differ from owner to owner, depending on you driving style and the conditions under which you drive. The daily amount of abuse your vehicle’s brakes take may vary greatly under these conditions. The brake shoes/pads in a vehicle of someone who drives in a stop-go manner, will take more beating than someone who drives in a manner that do not involve this kind of driving.

To answer the “how” part of the question, you may consider the following guidelines when it comes to brake-system care.

•  Have your brake pads/shoes checked at least once per year. It is also a good time to inspect the brake material thickness (lining) when you have your tires rotated. Worn out brake pads/shoes will cause the braking distance to increase and may cause a metal to metal grinding on the rotor surfaces.
•  Have your brake fluid and brake line checked regularly and if the colour of the fluid is dark, have it replaced.
•  When driving, keep your following distance to allow you to slow down (rather than braking) whenever a vehicle in front of you apply its brakes.
•  Your sense are one of the greatest tools you have to care for your brakes. Listen for any unusual noises; be tuned into strange and abnormal feelings when braking. When any of these rear its head, have your brakes inspected.
•  Human life is worth more than a set of brake pads that will not last long. Rather invest in more expensive but more reliable, durable and safe brake pads.
•  Braking from high speeds shortens the lifespan of a pair of brake shoes/pads considerably, best to avoid this practice as to ensure that long term use of the cars brake system is certain.

If you consider taking some of these steps to heart, then you will most certainly prolong the lifespan of your braking system.

Know the signs of faulty brakes.

Some might feel that brakes are overrated, that is until you need them! In a brake system it is usually the brake pads, rotors, brake shoes, and brake fluid that require the most frequent replacement. Problems with the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake line, proportioning valve and brake booster are less common. Let us look at the most commonly known symptoms of brake system faults.

Grinding and/or shrieking sound

A high-pitched and shrieking sound from the braking system area is a good indication that something is wrong. The cause of this sound may be due to brake pads that are wearing out. A small sheet of metal (called an indicator) is included in many (but not all) brake pads. The purpose of this indicator is to let you know that it is time to replace the pads. The sound may also be because of the contact between the rotor disc and the calliper; there may even be a solid object caught between the rotor and calliper. It can also be caused by low quality or damaged brake pads, or even if you fail to drive your vehicle often enough.
Do not wait for either of these sounds to rear its head, but when it does do not ignore them.

Soft brakes

Whenever you realise that it takes you longer than usual to come to a stop, when your brake pedal feels squishy and you have to pump your brakes in order to stop, or when the brake pedal simply sinks to the floor with little or no resistance, then that should be reason for concern. A leak in the braking system may most likely be the culprit and the fault usually lies with the master cylinder leaking internally or externally. Have this verified and rectified by contacting your nearest SAC Service Centre today.

Pushing down harder on the brake pedal

It is highly likely that there is a bad booster, booster hose or defective check valve whenever you find that you have to apply more force to press down the brake pad. Have a qualified SAC mechanic inspect your vehicle’s brakes if you find that this is the case.

Steering wheel shakes/wiggles when braking

A warped rotor, irregularities on your rotors caused by excessive heat, or pad impressions, can be the reason for a steering wheel that shakes/wiggles when you apply your vehicle’s brakes, especially when at high speeds. Brake rotors are big discs that sit inside of the wheels. When you step on the brake pedal, the brake pads hug the rotors, slowing them and your vehicle down. It is normal for the rotor surface to get slight variations, especially when you do not drive it frequently enough. What happens is moisture from rain or high humidity can cause the rotors of infrequently driven vehicles to rust. The only part that do not rust is the patch where the rotor surface and the pad connect with each other. This is referred to as an uneven patch of rotor surface, a pad impression. Such an impression will cause the brakes to pulsate. During brake servicing, the face of the rotor is often smoothed and evened out (provided there is enough surface present for this purpose) to correct these flaws. Most of the time it is better to replaced it.

Vehicle pulls to one side

According to Eddie Carrara, an Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certified master technician , this braking problem can be caused (in a brake-system related sense) by a frozen calliper that is stuck in its bore. What happens is that the dust boot that protects the piston from the elements can tear, when this happens water and debris can penetrate the metal in the calliper and cause it to rust and corrode. A stuck piston cannot push the fluid pressure back into the bore and this will result in an uneven pressure on the pads, which will then make the vehicle to pull to one side. To fix this problem you may consider replacing the calliper. A frozen calliper may not be the sole culprit if your vehicle acts in this way. A brake calliper houses the brake pads and the pistons; it is possible that a warped or bent piston cannot move freely anymore, causing the calliper to bind and limiting the amount of pressure to the pads. The calliper can also seeze up if the calliper slide pins lose lubrication due to a lack of proper maintenance. If you find your vehicle pulling to one side when applying your brakes, then address this issue please.

Brake pedal pulsates up and down when applying brakes

When this happens, the problem usually lies with warped rotors or rotors that lost their “trueness”, so to speak. Rotors age and go through the heating and cooling process countless times, so it is inevitable that they will eventually lose their original shape (“trueness”). If you are hard on your brakes, you will probably run into this problem many times during the life of your vehicle. This problem can be fixed by resurfacing the rotors, but only if they are still thick enough. SAC’s advice would be to have them replaced.

Whole vehicle shakes when brakes are applied

If your entire vehicle shakes when you apply your brakes, it could be your rear brakes. As a rule of thumb, shaking caused by a problem in the front end of the vehicle will manifest itself in the steering wheel, where you will feel it clearly. A problem with your vehicle’s rear brakes may however cause a shaking that will seem to affect the entire vehicle. If this happens, have it checked at your nearest SAC Service Centre.

Brake light on

Do not ignore a red or yellow brake indicator on your dashboard that lights up. Make sure that the parking brake is disengaged and fully released. An engaged parking brake can cause the brake light to go on. If the light is still on, acquaint yourself with the message behind the warning sign and address it. It is never safe to drive your vehicle while the brake light (or any other warning light, for that matter) is illuminated. All our branches are equipped with the right tools to find the problem behind burning engine lights.

Burning smell/smoke while driving

A sharp, chemical odour from the brake area is a sign of overheated brakes or even clutch. Make sure the vehicle’s parking brake disengaged and allow the brakes to cool. If there is smoke coming from a wheel, it may be a stuck brake calliper or something is leaking onto the brakes. If axle seals are leaking onto the brakes, it will ruin the brake pads and rotors. Have it fixed as soon as possible.

Brake stays on

It may feel as if the brakes stay engaged after having applied the brakes. If the rotors and wheels (all of them) get hot then the cause of this problem may be either the master cylinder, a faulty brake hose or a faulty ABS (Anti-lock Brake System). If only one wheel shows this symptom, then probably a brake calliper is stuck. Whichever the case may be, this is something that you should not take lightly.

Brake fluid leakage

You should immediately address any leakage in the braking system, irrespective of severity and location. Leakages will render the braking system ineffective, which may have serious repercussions for your entire vehicle.

We have drawn your attention to the fact that brake parts have a life span and – because of this – they need to receive a regular service and at times even replacement if you want them to work properly. You should also have a better understanding of the symptoms brought about by a faulty brake system. Address such faulty issues; do not procrastinate on them. Be on the safe side and maintain your brakes, give them the necessary love and care, and schedule a yearly brake inspection. After all, the safety of your life and that of others depend heavily on the smooth functioning of your vehicle’s braking system.

Clutch

Maintenance, Advice & Common Issues

Steves Auto Clinic South Africa possess more than 35 years of automotive repair knowledge. As leader in the field of automotive repairs and servicing, we deem ourselves more than qualified to address any clutch related issue. We employ qualified and well-trained mechanics (technicians) who are willing and ready to assist you with any clutch related issue at our Service Centres countrywide.

At Steves Auto Clinic, we consider every SAC client to be a part of the huge SAC family, and when it comes to prospective clients/customers, we welcome them with equal warmth and outstretched arms as part of the SAC family. Being part of this family means being cared for, that is why we want to keep everybody informed about the various components in their vehicles; not only with regard to the fair share of maintenance these components require to function smoothly and safely, but also with regard to the most common problems that these components may present you with.

We know that not everybody is as informed as the other person is, and we know from experience that not everybody possess the knowledge when it comes to component maintenance and/or the early identification of potential problems with these components. We want to rectify this. Fear of the unknown tends to cause anxiety and that is why we will highlight some aspects related specifically to one of these components today, namely the clutch system.

We want to make it clear that this article do not serve the purpose of instilling unnecessary and unfounded fear in our readers regarding the topic at hand; this article serves the primary purpose of informing our readers about what a clutch is, how to care for it and how to maintain it. We will also highlight the most common problems that a clutch may present, and how to identify these clutch related problems beforehand. In pursuing this goal, I will answer the following questions:

What is a clutch and how exactly does it work?
Are there different types of clutch systems?
How can I maintain & prolong my vehicle’s clutch life?
What are the most common issues with a clutch?

Without any further ado, let us delve right into the answering of these questions.

What is a clutch and how exactly does it work?

According to the Merriam Webster dictionary, a clutch is a coupling used to connect and disconnect a driving and a driven part of a mechanism (such as an engine and a transmission). In other words, a clutch is a mechanical device that engages and disengages the engine and transmission of the vehicle. This, in short, is the purpose of a clutch.

Every vehicle fitted with a manual transmission is fitted with a clutch; vehicles with an automatic or Tiptronic transmission make use of a hydraulic fluid coupling or a torque converter, instead of a clutch, to change gears, which is why people mostly refer to these as torque converter automatics. A torque converter connects to the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) of the engine and allows for precise control of the vehicle. I will discuss both the torque converter and fluid coupling in brief later on in the article. For the sake of knowledge, a Tiptronic (Sportmatic/Steptronic) transmission is a type of automatic transmission that allows the driver to choose whether he/she wants to drive in automatic mode (where the computer does gear shifting) or in a manual mode (where he/she has the opportunity to change gears without operating a clutch).

Back to the clutch itself. It would have been silly if a vehicle started moving the moment you started it. When you start a vehicle’s engine, the engine generates continuous power and there are parts that are in constant rotation, but the wheels are not constantly turning. What prevents the motor from engaging with the wheels (and therefore making movement of the vehicle possible), is the engagement of the clutch. The clutch contains two main parts, the clutch plate and the flywheel. The flywheel, fitted to the crankshaft, keeps on running as long as the engine is running. When the clutch engages, a set of springs help to keep a pressure plate pushed up against the clutch plate. The pressure from these springs push the clutch plate against the flywheel and this connection enables the transfer of power from the engine to the gearbox. The clutch and the engine will then rotate at equal speeds. The clutch makes this smooth engagement between the spinning engine and the non-spinning transmission possible.

Are there different types of clutch systems?

There are indeed different kinds of clutches. A clutch is the essential link between the engine and the drivetrain; with all the different engine types, it is not strange that the automotive world will have many engine-transmission combinations from which to choose. Clutches can take many shapes and forms and are mostly divided into two main categories: Friction & Hydraulic clutches.

Friction clutches

Friction type clutches work on the principle of friction that exist between two rotating shafts whenever they connect with each other. A friction clutch uses a pressure plate, a clutch plate/disk and a release bearing to engage and disengage the flywheel and the transmission. Example of these are cone, single-plate, multi-plate, diaphragm, centrifugal and semi-centrifugal clutches.

Let us look at the different types of friction clutches in order to understand them better:

Cone Clutch

The cone clutch uses two conical surfaces to transmit torque by friction. It was the commonly used clutch type in heydays but it became replaced by the disc type wet/dry multi plate clutches. This clutch type is still in use in racing and rallying vehicles, extreme off-road vehicles as well as in powerboats.

Single-plate Clutch

The single-plate clutch consist of three basic parts: the engine flywheel, a clutch plate and a pressure plate. The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft of the engine and rotates with it. The clutch plate is attached to the splines of the clutch shaft and the pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel through clutch springs and is free to slide onto the clutch shaft when the clutch pedal is operated. When pushing down on the clutch pedal, the clutch is released and the pressure plate moves away from the friction disc. When releasing the pedal, the springs push the pressure plate against the clutch disc, which presses against the flywheel, which in turn locks the engine to the transmission input shaft and the clutch is again engaged.

Multi-plate Clutch

This type of clutch works in the same manner as the single-plate clutch, with the exception that it consists of more than one clutch plate. The more the plates, the more the friction surface, the more the clutch capacity to transmit torque. For this reason, this type of clutch is used in high torque situations (such as heavy commercial vehicles, racing cars and motor cycles).

Diaphragm Clutch

This type of clutch is similar to the single-plate clutch, with one exception: a diaphragm spring (placed between the pressure-plate and the cover pressing) is used instead of coil springs, to exert pressure on the pressure plate. Coil springs do not distribute the spring force uniformly, so the diaphragm springs addresses that problem.

Centrifugal & Semi-Centrifugal Clutches

These types of clutches make use of centrifugal force to engage the clutch. The centrifugal clutch uses shoes (similar to that on a drum brake) to act against an inner (drum-type) face in order to engage and disengage the clutch. The only difference between the two clutches is that the centrifugal clutch is fully automatic while the semi-centrifugal clutch is not. These types of clutches are widespread in the moped and biking industry.

Hydraulic torque converter

This converter is actually in principle a type of fluid coupling. It sits between the engine and the gearbox in vehicles equipped with conventional automatic transmissions and what it does is it transfers rotating power from the vehicle’s engine, to that of the transmission. It contributes to an increase in the engine’s output torque, a decrease in the output speed and at the same time, it dampens vibrations. The hydraulic torque converter can be used in manual transmissions, but mainly when it comes to extremely heavy-duty vehicles.

Hydraulic clutches

Hydraulic type clutches transfer energy from one rotor to another by means of a hydraulic fluid. Examples of these are fluid couplingsand torque converters.

We can now look at the different types of hydraulic clutches:

Fluid coupling

This hydrodynamic device transmits rotating mechanical power and serves as an alternative to a semi or fully automatic mechanical clutch. In this type of clutch, there is no mechanical connection between driving and driven member. The clutch functions on the principle of liquid in centrifugal motion. The fluid coupling is not suitable for ordinary gearboxes and is used mainly in marine and industrial machine drives.

Finally, the electromagnetic clutch deserves some attention.

Electromagnetic clutch

In this type of clutch, the theory of magnetism is applied. The driven and driving end pieces act as separate poles of a magnet. A current activates the electromagnet and the clutch engage. The clutch disengage the moment you deactivate the electrical current. This type of clutch is prominent in the automotive industry, used in nearly every paddle-shift system. It is common opinion that if this form of clutch combines with a dual clutch transmission, it can become one of the most efficient forms of gear changing on the market.

How can I maintain & prolong my vehicle’s clutch life?

As a leading automotive repair and service centre, we at Steves Auto Clinic feel very strongly about vehicle maintenance. Life is valuable and a poorly maintained vehicle threatens the safety of your life every moment you or anyone else enters a poorly maintained vehicle. In the article written about the importance of having your vehicle serviced regularly, as well as the one about looking after your vehicle’s braking system, I repeatedly emphasised the importance of human safety. When it comes to maintaining your vehicle’s clutch, the status quo remains.

Due to repeated engagement and disengagement of the clutch, there is an inevitable build-up of heat due to friction. This heat has a side effect because it can introduce tiny air pockets in the hydraulic fluid that is used to transfer mechanical work and engage the clutch. These air pockets may impede overall good performance of the clutch. Bleeding the clutch to get rid of these air pockets, is certainly one of the simplest forms of clutch maintenance. It will also be wise to top up the hydraulic fluid after having bled the system.

Exactly how long your vehicle’s clutch will last before having to replace it, will depend greatly on the way you drive your vehicle and how you operate the clutch. It is equally important never to forget that the clutch plays an important role in your vehicle’s operation, it is therefore important to treat it carefully. Using your clutch gently can extend its use by thousands of kilometres. Reckless clutch operation can bring about the opposite result and cut its effective use to as much as half. You may therefore consider the following advice regarding responsible clutch operation.

The neutral is there for a reason

Are you one of those drivers who, when you approach a point where you need to stop, step on the clutch, keeping it pressed down, with your vehicle in gear ready to pull away? Do you have any idea how much unnecessary strain that exerts on the clutch? Rather place your vehicle in neutral; this will place no strain on the clutch and prolong its life.

Swift gear change

Changing gears do not need to be a prolonged exercise. When you change from one gear to another, do it swiftly. Remember, the longer the clutch pedal is kept in its downward position, the more strain is placed on the clutch. A dripping tap will eventually fill a bucket; a prolonged gear change will eventually shorten clutch life!

Be decisive

When you drive, be decisive. Observe your surroundings, the road and the route on which you are driving and plan beforehand when to slow down and when to exercise gear change. Abstain from too much unnecessary braking (thereby extending brake shoe/pad life) and from too frequent and unnecessary gear change (thereby extending clutch life). A pair of brake shoes/pads may be cheaper to replace than a clutch, so you may consider using your brakes to slow down rather than using the gearbox (down gearing) to slow down.

The handbrake

Some people leave their vehicle parked with the clutch engaged. This is not a very healthy practice because in doing so, the clutch disc stays under constant strain. Place your vehicle in neutral and engage the handbrake instead. This will have no effect on the clutch and in that way you will extend clutch life.

Ride your vehicle, not your clutch

The reference to “riding the clutch” refers simply to the tendency of some drivers to keep the clutch pedal partially pushed down. In doing so, no full engagement takes place, but what happens is that the pressure pad pushes against the clutch plate, and this causes unnecessary friction, which in turn causes unnecessary wear and tear, and we do not want that, now do we?

I think that every responsible vehicle owner can take these clutch-prolonging tips to heart. Not only does it make financial sense but it also has a positive ecological impact if you look after your vehicle’s components.

What are the most common issues with a clutch?

We now reached the core of the article. I hope that the information supplied thus far would give you a better understanding of the working of the different types of clutches available on the market and how to maintain these, whether it is by way of looking after them or by way of driving your vehicle. At Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of automotive repairs and servicing, we feel that it is very important that you, our valued customer, is INFORMED regarding common clutch related issues so that you may address these if ever any of them rear their little nasty heads.

What I will start with, is to remind you that with every start, with every stop and with every gear change, it means that the clutch is engaging and disengaging, and during such engaging process, friction occurs. Friction & clutch – we should see these two terms as hugging each other whenever the word “CLUTCH” is used. Friction is maybe the worst unconsciously thought of enemy in the clutch system because it brings about the wearing down of clutch components. Your clutch wears out, little by little, whenever it engage and disengage, but there is something else aggravating this process. Anything that increases the load on the clutch will also accelerate wear and tear. Here I specifically refer to practices such as towing and/or transporting something heavy, or even spinning your vehicle’s tyres.

The part suffering the most under such wear, and worth mentioning first, is the friction disk.

Slipping clutch

A slipping clutch is one of the most common clutch related concerns. When the pressure plate and the clutch disk wears down, it can cause the clutch to “slip”, causing a momentary loss of acceleration (engine racing) because the clutch does not rotate at the same speed as the flywheel. It is also possible that there is an issue in the releasing system; with the clutch linkage or with a blocked master cylinder port. It does at times happen that an incorrectly re-machined flywheel or the installation of the wrong clutch can cause a clutch to slip. If you have a slipping clutch, have a professional mechanic undertake the task of inspecting and fixing it. Amateurs should never attempt to work on such faults.

Clutch chatter (vibration)

One of the hardest working components in the clutch, is the pressure plate. It clamps the clutch disk to the flywheel and can become worn and even lose its lubrication due to a prolonged life of wear and tear. A worn pressure plate can cause “clutch chatter”, in other words, vibrations that you will feel whenever the clutch disk or clutch component is initially engaged. In another article where I discussed the brake system, I pointed out the tendency of the rotors to warp due to age and heat. The same may happen with regard to the flywheel. Over time, the flywheel can become warped or cracked due to overheating. As in the case of a worn pressure plate, the uneven flywheel can also cause this “clutch chatter”. Sometimes the fault can even be found on the driveline and not on the clutch itself. The driveline is responsible for torque transmission, and when this does not occur efficiently, clutch chatter becomes the result.

High clutch pedal release

Because the clutch disc is splined to the transmission’s input shaft, it can wear out over time. When this happens, it usually causes your clutch pedal to release higher than normal. In extreme cases, you may find that your vehicle have trouble accelerating, especially when under heavy load.

Squeaking whirring noise

If you experience an episode of “I haven’t heard that sound before”, then that may indicate that something is not as it is supposed to be. If the sound resembles a sharp whirring, rattling, or grinding noise when you depress the clutch, then it is very likely that your vehicle’s throw-out bearing is not working the way it should. Due to its continuous spinning, the throw-out bearing tend to wear out over time. When this happens, you may hear a squeaking noise as soon as you engage the clutch. This noise will not be present with the engine running and the clutch not engaged. Not only the throw-out bearing, but also the crankshaft pilot bearing can be responsible for producing this kind of noise whenever the clutch pedal reaches the floor. It is best practice to have clutch-related issues investigated and fixed.

Grinding when shifting gears

Whenever the friction or clutch disc remains engaged, the transmission input shaft keeps spinning even when you fully press the clutch pedal to the floor. Since the input shaft is still spinning, this will cause any attempt to shift gears, to result in clashing or grinding. The cause of this may be a faulty pressure plate, throw-out bearing or release mechanism. It may even be due to low fluid levels or air in the master cylinder. The clutch pedal assembly may also have too much free travel and will need adjustment.

Leaking fluid and/or strange odour

Most clutches nowadays are hydraulic and rely on hydraulic fluid for the proper functioning of the clutch. A leaking master cylinder or slave cylinder will result in the loss of hydraulic pressure. You will only be able to see such a leakage by either frequently inspecting these cylinders, by the presence of fluids pooling up under your vehicle, or even by a strange odour (when fluid leaks onto your exhaust).

Clutch pedal noise

The release mechanism can be hydraulic (most common) or mechanical. Due to lubricant drying out and the mechanism wearing down, the device is likely to become noisy because of a scraping, squealing or clunking cable, a rod or a connection. Ensure that the lubricated parts are indeed well lubricated.

Difficulty getting into/out of gear (spongy/loose pedal)

The cause of this can be due to a warped/damaged clutch plate or a problem with the master or slave cylinder. Whenever air gets into brake lines, the brake pedal will feel spongy, so make sure the clutch’s master cylinder have sufficient fluid and that the fluid is not old, in which case you need to replace it. If necessary, have the system bled and see if that rectify the issue.

Clutch pedal is hard

If the pedal is harder than usual, then the release guide can be worn and/or the release-bearing guide may have insufficient lubrication. The release mechanism should also be checked for things such as bad bushings or worn linkages, a worn release fork or pivot, a worn cross shaft guide, improper hydraulic fluid or even a damaged firewall. These may all bring about a stiff clutch pedal.

Clutch pedal stays on floor

In opposition to a stiff clutch pedal, it may happen that the pedal stay down on the floor. This may be a sign of a faulty linkage or a release bearing. Ensure that the springs in the linkage are not over-stretched and, if necessary, inspect the release bearing. It may also be that the clutch master or slave cylinder has an external seal leakage and needs replacement.

The issues highlighted here should serve as guidelines when you want to troubleshoot a clutch-related issue. What is important is to keep in mind that an ill-performing clutch is a safety issue. A qualified mechanic should inspect an improper functioning clutch; at Steves Auto Clinic branches countrywide, we not only have friendly and qualified mechanics for this purpose, but also state of the art equipment to address any related clutch issue effectively.

Transmission (Gearbox)

What is a Gearbox, how to maintain and known problems

It is advisable to read this article in conjunction with the article written about the clutch system.

In this article, we will continue to acquaint our readers with vehicle component knowledge. You will learn more about the transmission (gearbox), how to look after it and any known problems that a transmission (gearbox) may present you with.

A clarification of the differences in understanding between the term transmission and gearbox will suffice before we continue. What YOU may understand under the term “transmission” may not be what someone else understands. In British English, the term “transmission” refers to the entire drivetrain (clutch, gearbox, prop shaft, differential, and drive shafts) but in American English, the term “transmission” refers simply to the gearbox alone. I am willing to make a tiny wager that not many of you knew this little fact. During the course of this article, I will stick to the term transmission, but with the American English understanding of “gearbox” in mind.

What is the basic function of the transmission then?

The transmission usually consist of a cast iron or aluminium case that house multiple gears with the ability to switch between these gears. Most commonly, the transmission connects to the crankshaft of the engine via a flywheel or clutch or fluid coupling. The output of the transmission takes place via the driveshaft to one or more differentials, which drives the wheels. Switching between gears can be done manually or automatically (or both) in order to bring about forward and reverse (or even sideways) control. The transmission therefore makes use of gears and gear trains in order to provide speed and torque conversions from a rotating power source to another device. Simply put, the job of a vehicle’s transmission is to make sure that the right amount of power goes to your wheels to enable you to drive at a given speed.

Transmission types falls into four categories: Manual, Automatic, Semi-Automatic and Continuously Variable. A quick overview of each follows for the sake of a better understanding.

Manual Transmission

Two types of the Manual transmissions exist:
• A simple yet rugged sliding-mesh system, where straight-cut spur gear sets spin freely and must be synchronized by the operator matching engine revs to road speed in order to avoid noisy and damaging clashing of the gears. This type was standard in many vintage cars.
• The universal constant-mesh gearboxes are now the modern standard for on- and off-road, manual and semi-automatic transmissions. In these, typically diagonal cut helical (or sometimes straight-cut or double-helical) gear sets are constantly “meshed” together. The changing of gears happens by way of a dog clutch (two rotating components that couples by interference and not by friction).

Automatic Transmission

An automatic transmission primarily uses hydraulics to select gears, depending on the pressure exerted by a fluid within the transmission assembly. Rather than using a clutch to engage the transmission, a torque converter or fluid flywheel, placed in-between the engine and the transmission, makes it possible for the driver to control the number of gears in use or select reverse, though precise control of which gear is in use, may or may not be possible.

Semi-Automatic Transmission

Who says you cannot have your bread buttered on both sides? Not solely into manual? Not solely into automatic? The semi-automatic may then be more to your liking. This is a hybrid form of transmission where an integrated control system handles the manipulation of the clutch automatically but the driver can still take manual control of gear selection.

Image Source: https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/which-transmission-towing/page3/

Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)

This type of transmission offers a similar driving experience to an automatic, but operates using a completely different mechanism. It does not have gears; it uses a system of belts and pulleys to produce an infinite range of ratios. Your vehicle’s computer controls the adjustment of the pulleys to create the optimal ratio for the particular driving situation. This makes the CVT exceptionally fuel-efficient.

This, in short, explains the differences in transmission types.

How should I look after my transmission?

Your vehicle’s transmission contributes 50% to your vehicle’s ability to move, the other 50% being the engine. If either of these malfunction, then you will have no movement. Okay, let us not get technical. If someone or something pushes the vehicle, there will surely be movement, and when the wheels fall off, there will surely be no movement. This is not what I refer to when I say that movement or the lack thereof relies 50-50 on the transmission and the engine. What I refer to here is what I said in the beginning: the job of a vehicle’s transmission is to make sure that the right amount of power goes to your wheels to enable you to drive at a given speed. No transmission, no engine torque directed to the wheels, no driving ability.

To ensure that your vehicle’s transmission is always in a good working condition, you have to practice proper maintenance procedures on that transmission. Proper maintenance procedures will significantly reduce the risk of costly servicing and component replacements. An ill-kept transmission may also contribute to a loss in fuel economy, but more so, to a loss in functionality, and that will leave you stranded and hurt your pocket dearly. Preventative maintenance on you vehicle’s transmission will not take you as long as reading Moby Dick or The Iliad. Such maintenance starts at checking the lifeblood of your transmission, namely the transmission fluid.

Transmission fluid has different purposes when it comes to manual and automatic transmissions. In the former, the transmission fluid keeps the gears lubricated (prevent grinding) and in the latter, it creates hydraulic pressure that powers movement within the transmission. Transmission fluid does not last forever, and from the above it should be clear to understand why checking the transmission fluid is so important.

Before you check the fluid, make sure whether your vehicle should be running while performing this task, or not (this may usually be found inside your vehicle’s manual). There is a reason why this should or should not be the case, so stick to it. Locate the vehicle’s transmission fluid dipstick (not the one for the oil) and pull it out. It should be covered with fluid and the fluid should be at the required indicator on the dipstick. Wipe the dipstick clean with a decently clean rag and repeat the process. If the fluid is below the required indicator, then fill it up slowly. If you add too much transmission fluid, it can be as bad for your transmission as when you have too little in the transmission.

When you inspect the level of fluid, also check the condition of the fluid. Transmission fluid is supposed to be pink or red; the reason for this is mainly to enable easy visibility. Ensure that your transmission fluid is clean enough to see through (it should be translucent). If the fluid is visibly a darker colour, then that may be signs of degraded transmission fluid or transmission problems. Also, take a moment and smell the liquid. If it smells burnt, then that may be grounds for concern. If you feel uncomfortable about the transmission fluid condition, then do consider having a mechanic flush your transmission system and replace all of the fluid instead of just topping it up. Doing this may cost you far less than an entire transmission replacement.

Apart from checking the transmission fluid dipstick, also take some time (if you can) and inspect the vehicle for any transmission fluid leakages. The most common places to inspect are the seals, transmission lines, loose pans or faulty gaskets. If you notice any leaks, have it repaired as soon as possible.

I am not going to give you distance-driven-estimates at which you should check your transmission fluid. If you do a lot of driving that involves a lot of stop-and-go gear changing, then you should consider checking the fluid more frequently than someone who do not drive under these conditions. You will learn in the following section about the problems that faulty and low transmission fluids can bring about, and you will then see why keeping the transmission fluid in check, is so extremely important.

Which known issues may a transmission present?

A defective transmission is a nightmare; not only is it expensive to repair, but such reparation can be a time consuming affair. If you practice preventative maintenance, have some knowledge of common signs of transmission problems, and address them before they become unmanageable, then you might just save yourself from a lot of unnecessary stress.

The following are the most common symptoms that you may encounter from an unwell transmission:

Transmission noisy in neutral

If the transmission, in its neutral position, is a bit noisy and goes “bump”, then it is likely that the transmission fluid is low; you should therefore check the level. Do not convince yourself that it cannot be the fluid because you checked it last week – leakages happens. Check it! If the level is fine then there might be something else wrong, such as worn out bearings, gear teeth or a reverse idler gear, in which case you should have it checked and fixed by a professional.

Transmission slipping or jumping during gear shift.

This symptom is one to that you must not take lightly. What if the transmission slips or jumps out the moment you need to gear down and accelerate in order to prevent a serious incident? You will experience a slipping transmission when the following happens: You are driving in a gear and then it changes to another gear for no apparent reason. Your vehicle may also feel like it is struggling to get along, especially when you step on the gas but find there is no true acceleration and the engine simply pics up revs. If your vehicle’s transmission acts in such a way, the possibility exist that the link holding the gears is worn or broken; it may also be due to a defective solenoid or a burnt clutch disc, more about the solenoids later. You need to get your vehicle to a qualified mechanic immediately due to it being a huge safety risk.

Grinding or shaking gear change.

If your manual transmission makes a grinding noise or feeling when you shift into a gear, then it is highly likely that that gear’s teeth or synchronizer is worn or damaged. Take note that the clutch might also present this symptom. If the grinding occurs after engaging the clutch, then the clutch may need replacement or adjustment. Your vehicle’s automatic transmissions may act otherwise. It will not make the grinding noise but instead you might feel a lack of smooth gear transitions. As the problem worsen, the transitions become jarring, accompanied by shaking. The best thing to do is have it checked and repaired.

A burnt smell.

Any burning smell is a cause for concern. With regard to our discussion of the transmission, our focus of the burning smell will therefore be directed to the transmission. When the transmission fluid overheats, it will cause a burning smell. Generally, transmission fluid has a slightly sweet odour but when you get that burning smell, then it is time to investigate. Why would it overheat? What happens is that the fluid breaks down due to debris and sludge and when this happens, the system runs too hot. Always ensure that the fluid level is to its required mark, and use the correct brand/type of fluid in your vehicle. Dirty fluid will not efficiently keep your transmission parts cooled and lubricated, it will only contribute to more serious component damage.

Fluid leaking from the vehicle

A fluid leak is one of the most common causes of a transmission breakdown. Transmissions are generally sealed units that should never leak fluid, but if you experience a leakage, then it is highly likely that its origin may be found at the torque converter, the transmission pan, the fluid lines, the pan gasket or even at one of the seals. Have them fixed. A leakage reduce transmission fluid, which reduce friction and/or hydraulic pressure, all of which will render your vehicle’s transmission inadequate for its task.

Engine light.

The check engine light on your vehicle’s dashboard is there for a reason; do not ignore it. The sensors present in your vehicle’s transmission can notice the slightest spasms and vibrations that you are not able to see or feel. If the light goes on, do the self-maintenance explained earlier in this article. If the fluid level is fine, the texture is in order and you cannot detected any visible leeks, then there is only one way – to a professional to have it inspected.

Transmission solenoid problems (Automatic transmissions)

An automatic transmission makes use of solenoids for its smooth functioning, such as the transmission shift solenoid, the lock-up solenoid, or transmission control solenoid and even the torque converter clutch solenoid. A solenoid may be the cause of many automatic transmission problems. Electronic malfunctions or inadequate fluid levels can damage the solenoid. Why is this? Because the transmission fluid is directed through the valve body by way of these solenoids. They open and close hydraulic valves in order to regulate the flow. A faulty solenoid may allow too much fluid pressure (you may then experience rough shifting) or too little pressure (in which case the clutch plates can overheat). If there is a delay in shifting, no downshifting or not shifting into the correct gear, then it is likely that a solenoid problem exist. Have it inspected and fixed.

Transmission fluid on dipstick is cloudy, thick or foul smelling.

We touched on this, and the best and only thing to do is to have the transmission fluid system flushed and replaced with new fluid. Do not take a gamble because you will regret it.

Failed needle roller bearings (automatic transmission)

Needle bearings are small, lightweight roller bearings that help prevent gears in the automatic transmission’s torque converter from grinding. If the transmission’s needle bearings become worn or sluggish, you may hear grinding or brushing noises coming from your vehicle while the car is in motion. This sound can mean your transmission gears are moving inefficiently and prematurely worn down. Have it checked and fix the issue.

Your vehicle’s transmission is a complex mechanical system that experience more wear and tear over time than most other parts in your vehicle. Issues are bound to arise if you fail to maintain your vehicle’s transmission; issues will also worsen if a professional does not check symptoms soon after they developed. If you notice something unusual and you are not able to rectify the problem, then you should have your vehicle immediately inspected by a specialist. At Steves Auto Clinic, we have the expertise, the machinery and the friendly service to assist you with any transmission related matter.

As a final thought, before authorizing any transmission repairs, always ask and ensure that the workshop you utilise will use new parts to replace the replacing parts and ask where those new parts will come from. Also, ensure (whenever they rebuild/replace the existing transmission) that there is a warranty in place.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
http://transmissionrepairguy.com/signs-of-automatic-transmission-problems/
http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-solenoid/
https://carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/common-transmission-problems-cant-overlook/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_(mechanics)
https://www.angieslist.com/articles/5-transmission-problems-you-cant-ignore.htm
https://www.budgetdirect.com.au/blog/manual-vs-automatic-car-transmission-pros-cons.html
https://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/4-types-of-car-transmissions-and-how-they-work.html/
https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/maintain/transmission/problems/
https://www.honkforhelp.com/explore/2015/7-symptoms-of-transmission-trouble/
https://www.meineke.com/blog/transmission/
https://www.pepboys.com/car_care_corner/car_care_basics/maintenance/transmission_warning_signs/
https://www.placentiasuperservice.com/blog/7-most-common-automatic-transmission-problems
https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/10-common-transmission-problems/
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/the-10-transmission-problems-to-never-ignore

A vehicle owner’s focus may mostly be on the fine working of the engine, the gearbox, the tyres and the presence of sufficient fluids (fuel, water, transmission fluid, brake fluid, etc.). There is however, an important yet mostly taken for granted component – the starter. Owners seldom think about the starter, maybe less about how it works and how to take care of it and the problems it may present to you. In this discussion, we aim at rectifying this by telling you more about the starter motor.

The Starter motor and its working

We can become technical and dismember the starter motor piece-by-piece, explaining the function of each part, but we will not do this here. We will discuss the primary function of the starter motor briefly but we will first look at how Wikipedia defines a starter: A starter is a device used to rotate (crank) an internal-combustion engine so as to initiate the engine’s operation under its own power.

This is the main function of the starter. In the olden days, when vehicles were still in their infancy stage, a crank handle had to be used to turn the motor and start combustion procedures. The starter replaced this arduous task.

The following image of the main components of a starter, can serve as a tool to assist you during the discussion of how a starter motor works. So how does a starter work?

The starter is an electric motor that turns the engine over when you turn the ignition beyond the ignition on position. The battery current activates an electromagnet inside the starter that in turn enables the pinion to engage with the gear ring on the flywheel of the engine, and this spins the engine over; simultaneously electricity go to the spark plugs via the spark plug wires, completing the start of the combustion process. As the engine turns, the starter disengages and the electromagnet stops. The pinion rod pull back into the starter in order to prevent the pinion gear to make further contact with the turning flywheel because a turning flywheel will only cause damage to an interacted pinion. This in short is the basic function of a starter motor.

Not all starter motors are the same; there are different types of starter motors.

Starter Motor Types

According to the site “How a car works”, there are two types of starter motors, the inertia type and the pre-engaged type. We will share their explanation of these two types for the sake of informing you, the reader:

Inertia Type

In this type, a bendix gear throws the pinion towards the motor. The pinion moves along the thread of the motor shaft and engages with the flywheel gear ring. It stops at the end of the thread, begins to turn with the shaft and so turns the engine. The inertia of the heavy piston assembly prevents it from spinning immediately when the motor shaft turns, so it slides along the thread and into engagement. When the engine starts, the pinion turns faster than its shaft; the spinning action screws the pinion back down its thread and out of engagement. The pinion returns so violently that there has to be a strong spring on the shaft to cushion its impact. This violent engagement and disengagement can cause heavy wear on the gear teeth, so to overcome this, the pre-engaged starter was born.

Pre-Engaged Type

This type of starter has a solenoid mounted on the motor. The solenoid not only switches on the motor, it also slides the pinion along the shaft to engage it with the gear ring of the flywheel; this is done by way of a sliding fork. The shaft has straight splines rather than a Bendix thread, so that the pinion always turns with it. The solenoid has two sets of contacts that close one after the other. The first contact supplies a low current to the motor so that it turns slowly – just far enough to let the pinion teeth engage. The second contact then closes, feeding the motor a high current to turn the engine. The starter motor is saved from over-speeding when the engine starts by means of a freewheel clutch. The return-spring of the solenoid then withdraws the pinion from engagement.

According to the blogspot Whatisstressuni, there is a third type of starter:

Gear Reduction Type

This type of starter motor contains a magnetic switch, a compact high-speed motor, several reduction gears, a pinion gear, a starter clutch etc. The extra gears reduce the motor speed by a factor of one to three or four and transmit it to the pinion gear. The plunger of the magnetic switch directly pushes the pinion gear, located on the same axis, and this cause it to mesh with the ring gear of the flywheel. This type of starter motor generates much greater torque than the conventional type.

There we have it, the three basic types of starter motors. You should now have a better understanding of the working within the different types of starter motors. The main points to keep in mind, is that we have moving parts and electrical currents in work within these systems. Wherever these are present, there will also be a high likeliness that something may go wrong. This will create issues with these systems. Let us have a look at these.

Starter Motor Issues

Let us be frank, starter failure is inevitable, it is surely just a matter of time; the starter motor will eventually run its course, whether this is because of poor maintenance or just due to every day wear and tear. The two components most commonly prone to fail, are the solenoid or the starter motor itself. When the starter begin to wear out or when it actually fails entirely, then it will display signs that will indicate to you where the problem may be. The most common signs of a failing starter is a no-crank or slow-crank condition. A worn-out component, a bad electrical connection or an insufficient battery usually causes this condition.

Is this the only way to detect starter failure? Surely not, according to Dan Ferrell (2016), the most common way to detect a sign of starter motor failure is through sound, or even the lack thereof. He turns our attention to the following sounds that may indicate starter failure:

Whirring sound:

An excessively worn solenoid will not be able to engage the pinion gear with the flywheel. This will create a whirring sound because the armature in the starter will spin all by itself, unable to crank the engine to a start.

Buzzing sound

Even though the electrical current reaches the solenoid, it fails to activate the solenoid’s plunger successfully, so the pinion gear cannot engage with the flywheel. This is usually due to a poor current flow (a low battery charge / poor electrical connections along the starting circuit / corroded battery terminals).

Loud click

A single, solid click may indicate that the starter circuit is not receiving enough current. The solenoid needs enough voltage to operate and when there is a poor earth connection somewhere, the starter motor will absorb all the current, shutting off the solenoid. You will only hear the loud click. The click may also be indicative of a mechanical problem somewhere in the engine itself.

Grinding noise

If you hear a harsh or grinding noise as you attempt to crank up the engine, then it may be that you have a loose starter motor (check the mounting bolts), or a flywheel or pinion gear with broken or worn-out teeth. If the gears on the flywheel and pinion are not able to mesh properly, all you hear is the sound of metal teeth clashing loudly.

No noise

When you try to start your car, you may hear no sound at all. This silence may be due to electrical issues, such as a failed battery; a failed system component (have the relay or safety switch inspected), or even a corroded electrical connection somewhere that prevents current from reaching the starter.

Fortunately, common starter motor problems tend to happen in predictable places. At the Autozone site, they discuss the following issues that may be helpful if you suspect starter motor failure:

Over Tightening:

It is important to hand-tighten mounting bolts and try to avoid cracking the mounting flange because it is made of cast steel. Remember the cause of the grinding noise!

Broken pinion

A pinion with severely damaged teeth all the way around (improper contact with the flywheel ring gear) is usually caused by a faulty ignition switch or attempting to crank the engine when it is already running. Do also keep in mind the cause of the grinding noise!

Kick Back

The engine kicks back when the pinion is engaged but is misaligned with the flywheel and the starter attempts to crank the engine. This is usually caused by an existing fuel or ignition timing problem.

Poor Grounding

The mounting base ensure that the starter motor is ground properly. In the event of the motor not grounded properly, then you can be in for a starter not working properly.

Loose Electrical Connection

When the electrical connection to the starter motor from the battery is not tight, it can cause arcing and burning.

Melted Terminal

Cranking an engine for more than 10-12 seconds, may cause critical electrical connections to become overheated and this may cause them to melt.

Apart from all the sounds you need to be aware of, and the other issues discussed here that may cause starter failure, two other components (if they fail) need more specific mentioning, because they will also cause starter issues: the starter relay and the solenoid itself.

Starter Relay

The starter relay may also contribute to a starter motor not working properly. According to the autoblog Yourmechanic, the starter relay redirects power from the battery to the starter solenoid. It is the solenoid that then activate the starter to spin over the engine, so whenever the relay fails, the solenoid will not work. Any of the following symptoms may be present when a starter relay fails – Vehicle does not start; Starter stays on after engine started; Erratic starting of the vehicle; Clicking sound coming from the starter.

Starter Solenoid

Even though some issues with regard to the solenoid was said, it will do no harm to say a little bit more. The Autozone site warns us that the following may contribute to a solenoid going bad:

Moisture

When moisture is inside of a solenoid, corrosion can occur that will interfere with electrical conductivity.

Overheating

Holding the ignition key in the “start” position for an excessive amount of time pulls a lot of current through the solenoid and can melt contacts and solders.

Over Tightening

Excessive torqueing of fasteners can break posts or other vital components on or inside the solenoid, which can make it malfunction.

Incorrect Wiring

Installing the solenoid incorrectly can cause the solenoid to short out and burn up internal components.

The starter motor and its solenoid is clearly an equally important component as any other component in your vehicle. It needs the same amount of maintenance and care for it to serve you well. A starter and a solenoid is prone to fail during its lifetime, so remember, whenever you experience any of the abovementioned issues, and you do not possess the relevant knowledge to address these issues, then please visit a reputable workshop and have qualified mechanics and technicians fix the issue. We at Steves Auto Clinic welcomes you at any of our branches for starter related issues, so consider visiting a reputable franchise with more than 35 years of experience.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
Autozone. Undated. How starters go bad. Online available at: https://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=starting-and-charging-guide-starter Accessed 25 July 2018.
Autozone. Undated. How starters Solenoids go bad. Online available at: https://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=starting-and-charging-guide-starter Accessed 25 July 2018.
Ferrell, D. 2016. Bad Starter Symptoms: Why Won’t My Car Start? Online available at: https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/bad_starter_symtpoms Accessed 25 July 2018.
How a car works. 2018. Blog – How the starting system works. Online available at: https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-the-starting-system-works Accessed 25 July 2018.
Whatisstressuni. 2012. Starter motor types. Online available at: http://whatisstressuni.blogspot.com/2012/03/inertia.html Accessed 25 July 2018.
Wikipedia. Starter (Engine). Online available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_(engine) Accessed 25 July 2018.
Yourmechanic. 2016. Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Starter Relay. Online available at: https://www.autoblog.com/2016/01/12/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-starter-relay/ Accessed 25 July 2018.