Alternators

How the alternator works, alternator types and troubleshooting

At Steves Auto Clinic, leader in die field of automotive repairs and servicing, we see to it that our care for you and your vehicle go beyond the confines of our workshops. That is why we want to inform you about your vehicle’s alternator and the problems it may pose, problems that is fairly common, to say the least.

You might not know or realize it at this stage, but the alternator, in its capacity as a charging system on your vehicle, plays an essential role in everything electrical. The logical conclusion to be made is that when the electrical charging system malfunctions, then it can cause major electrical and other problems. At Steves Auto Clinic we believe that it pays to know more about vehicle components. Buckle up while we tell you more about the alternator, how it works, the different types in use and of course, the most important of all, how to identify signs and symptoms of a failing alternator.

Let us start at what an alternator is, and for this purpose, we will turn ourselves to how Wikipedia describes it. According to Wikipedia, an alternator is an electrical generator that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy in the form of alternating current. The term alternator (and maybe you made that connotation) comes from its capacity to generate alternating current. Yes, it generates, that is why the alternator has been (and sometimes is still being) called a generator.

This is the basic definition of what an alternator is, but how does it work?

How the alternator works

Many people – due to a lack of knowledge – have a misconception of the working of the alternator, added that they even know of the existence of this vehicle component. Do not despair; we are here to rectify this. It is as Goeres (2017) say, people may think that the BATTERY powers the electrics in your vehicle, but no, that is not the case. The battery provides electricity needed for the starter motor to start your vehicle. When your vehicle is running, the alternator generates energy to feed the electrical system and charge the battery. How does it do that? Well, what happens is that mechanical energy (generated by the engine) is sent to the alternator via the engine drive belt (the serpentine belt). Inside the alternator, this mechanical energy is converted to electricity (alternating current – AC). The latter works as follows. The stationary part of the alternator is called the stator (from there the word stator); within the stator is a rotor that rotates (maybe that is why it is called a rotor…). This rotation is made possible due to an interaction between windings and magnetic fields within the stator. By way of electromagnetism – due to this stator-rotor relationship – alternating current (AC) is formed.

Let your mind go and think back to when you were younger and most likely had (or knew someone who had) one of those bicycle lights. The alternator works on the same principle as the little component that generated electricity (by way of the turning wheel) for the flashlight.

Do you now have a better understanding of the working of an alternator? The alternator is surely an important part of your vehicle’s functioning. So, it is as Taylor (2018) say; the alternator may be a small component, but it plays one of the most critical roles in the operation of your vehicle. If you don’t believe us, simply turn the ignition to the on position without starting your vehicle and switch on as many electrical appliances and components in your vehicle on and see how long the battery is going to last. It will die, in a very short period of time. We do not advise you to do this; it should rather be a mental than a physical exercise, but you can trust us on this, the battery will not last.

Now that you have a better idea of the purpose and working of the alternator, let us look at the types of alternators. Having knowledge about the types may also be conducive to a better appreciation of the purpose of the alternator.

Types of alternators

According to the Redarc website, there are two main types of alternators commonly used in today’s vehicles: the traditional Fixed Voltage Alternator and the modern Smart Alternator.

Fixed Voltage Alternators are becoming less common on new vehicles; this is because of reduced fuel consumption targets and more stringent emission standards. Let us explain why. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) externally controls the output voltage of smart alternators (to be discussed next). This is not the case regarding fixed voltage alternators. An internal voltage regulator controls the output voltage of a fixed voltage alternator. How does this affect fuel consumption? When an alternator produce a charge, the electromagnetic field generated between the stator and the rotor (as discussed earlier) produces a mechanical load on the engine via the alternator drive belt. Whenever the requirement for voltage increase, the engine must work harder to turn the alternator. This work consumes more fuel, so there you have it. Traditional alternators maintain their voltage and this means that there is always a significant load on the engine from the alternator, which is not very fuel-efficient. This is not the case when it comes to Smart Alternators.

Smart Alternators (also known as variable voltage alternators or computer-controlled alternators) allow the vehicle to control the output voltage from the alternator based on vehicle operating conditions. It does this in order to reduce electrical load and in turn, mechanical load on the engine by the alternator. Where the control of the output voltage in the fixed alternator happened internally, the smart alternators have their output voltage controlled externally via the Engine Control Unit (ECU). How does this affect fuel consumption? Being ECU-controlled, the voltage output can be varied so that the voltage can be brought below the standard voltage during periods when no charging is required. In this way engine load is reduced, which in turn means better fuel consumption.

You may ask yourself how will you be able to identify between the two, well, smart alternators require battery-sensing technology (for the ECU) in order to determine load coming from the battery. Simply inspect your vehicle’s battery terminals, you may find a sensor on the (usually negative) battery terminal. This will tell you that you have a smart alternator in your vehicle. If there is no sensor, then you most likely have the old traditional alternator.

So you should understand by now that the working of an alternator is more extensive than you may have initially thought. You may also now understand better that a failing alternator simply will not be able to keep up with all of the things you ask your vehicle to do during a typical drive. Let us therefore come to the final part of our alternator discussion, and that is the troubleshooting part.

Alternator Troubleshooting

From dash lights flashing briefly, headlights dimming, not to mention odd smells and growling sounds – these may all hint to possible alternator problems.

The Diesel Electric and Pep Boys websites, as well as Popely (2016), collectively points out some possible alternator warning signs of which you should take note. One thing we should not forget is the simple fact that an alternator not only provides power to the vehicle’s electrical system, computer, and electrical accessories, it also keeps the battery charged. Precisely because of this, it is of utmost importance to ensure that your alternator functions properly. How will you know if it starts to malfunction? If you take note of the following signs, then you will be a step ahead, so when any of these manifest themselves, address them immediately.

Dim lights

If you notice dimming headlights and/or dashboard lights or pulsating headlights at night (dim & bright), then warning lights should go on in your head. This indicates potential alternator failure and it can cause other electronic accessories (power windows, seats etc.) to operate slower than usual.

Warning light

Most modern vehicles have a dashboard warning light that alerts you when the alternator is giving issues. Baxter & Threewitt add to this by reminding us that if the alternator’s output goes below or above a pre-set limit, then the dash light will come on. Once the output is within range, the light will go out. In the early stages of alternator problems the light can seem to flicker for just a second and then go off again; it may even light up only when accessories are activated.

Weak or dead battery

An alternator can only recharge your vehicle’s battery to the point that it has a decent amount of life left in it and is able to accept a charge. If the battery is weak or dead, the alternator cannot bring it back to life. To see whether the issue is the alternator or the battery, simply charge the battery and restart the vehicle. If the battery is weak, the vehicle will continue to run but the lights will become dim after a short time, indicating a problem with the charging system. If the vehicle has difficulty starting after the battery is fully charged, the problem is likely with the alternator. Adding to this, Baxter & Threewitt points to the fact that when an alternator begins to fail or fails outright, the vehicle’s battery have to take up the slack. Even the best battery will eventually run down, leaving you stranded, and you surely do not want this, do you?

Odd sounds

Many different parts spin inside your vehicle’s alternator to produce electrical current. If one of these parts worn out or break, this could cause a grinding or whining noise. Worn out bearings (usually due to an over tightened belt wearing down the unit) or a loose pulley is known to cause this noise. If the bushings that the alternator is mounted on have gone bad, a noise will also be produced.

Weird smells

An alternator works in conjunction with a system of belts. If a belt is not turning freely, the excess friction could cause the belt to heat up which produces a burning rubber smell. If you detect a smell similar to that of an electrical fire, this could indicate that the belt is slipping on the alternator pulley, causing poor alternator output. Tightening the belt could fix this. An overheated alternator that push too much power through the rotor and stator may also cause this smell.

Visual cues (belts)

If you experience electrical problems, and the alternator seems fine, then the problem could be with one of the belts connected to the alternator. As Baxter & Threewitt suggest, have a look, a broken or loose belt is obvious. A quick visual check of the belt for cracking, excessive wear, and other age issues, you have preventative results. Keep in mind that the belt must have the proper tension to run the alternator correctly; too much tension is just as bad as not enough.

Broken or Loose Connections

Baxter & Threewitt also say that if everything with the alternator seems fine, then it might mean that the alternator is producing electricity but it’s either not going anywhere or it is not the right type. If there is any problem within the wires, cables or connections at either end of the alternator-battery, then it can reduce or prevent electricity flow. If this is the case, you may experience brighter lights (the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance in a bad wire or broken/loose connection). This is usually accompanied by the smell of hot wires. Another problem could be the alternator’s diode rectifier. Alternators produce alternating current, but vehicle accessories require direct current (DC) to operate. The rectifier changes the current from AC to DC. Without that critical component operating properly, the electricity produced by the alternator, will be useless.

Slow Accessories

Baxter & Threewitt points out that modern vehicle features are great right up until the moment they are not, and the complex computers and wiring systems that operate our power accessories lend more opportunity for something to go wrong. If you notice one electrical quirk, you will want to get that specific feature checked out. If you experience several issues at once, it is probable your alternator is malfunctioning. You might not even notice that your vehicle is running with reduced electricity until you make additional demands on the system, such as turning on an interior light or adjusting windows. Avoid using these in order to reduce the chances of alternator failure until you can get your vehicle checked out.

David Taylor (2018) adds to the points mentioned thus far by saying that if an alternator has no charge, then it can be down to a variety of issues, such as a loose or missing fan belt; a break in wiring; a blown fuse or blown rectifier diode. If there is only a low charge, then it might be because of a loose fan belt or poor wiring connections. If there is an overcharge, then it is probably caused by a poor battery condition or failed regulator or rotor

A final point of concern – always ensure that the battery is fully charged before replacing an alternator. The most common cause of alternator failure, says David Taylor (2018) is due to shoddy mechanics not doing their job correctly. According to him, mechanics do not properly ensue that the vehicle’s battery is fully charged after replacing an alternator. If the battery is not fully charged, the alternator will charge the flat battery and fail to handle the vehicle’s electricity demand. This is likely to result in an overloaded alternator. The rectifier will then blow and the unit will be rendered useless.

These then are the signs and symptoms to look out for when you drive your vehicle and when you maintain it. It is true that alternator repair is not too hard, but you will definitely need a serpentine belt diagram for your specific vehicle so that you can put the belt back on correctly. At Steves Auto Clinic, we have qualified mechanics and technicians who can assist you in this regard. If you suspect your vehicle to suffer from any alternator related issue, please do not procrastinate. Have the system checked for any signs of failure and let us fix that for you.

Happy driving.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
Baxter, E., Threewitt, C. (Undated). Top 10 signs of alternator problems. Online available at: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/diagnosing-car-problems/mechanical/5-signs-alternator-problems.htm Accessed on 26 July 2018.
Briggs, J. (Undated). How Alternators Work. Online available at: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator1.htm Accessed on 26 July 2018.
Diesel Electric. (Undated). Taking care of your alternator. Online available at: https://www.diesel-electric.co.za/take-care-of-your-alternator/ Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Goeres, E. 2017. What does a car’s alternator do? Online available at: http://www.thedrive.com/tech/7298/what-does-a-cars-alternator-do Accessed on 27 July 2018.
My Auto Repair Advice. (Undated). Alternator problems and repair. Online available at: http://www.myautorepairadvice.com/alternator_problems.html Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Pep Boys. (Undated). Six alternator warning signs. Online available at: https://www.pepboys.com/car_care_corner/car_care_basics/maintenance/signs_of_a_failing_alternator/ Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Popely, R. 2016. Common alternator problems. Online available at: https://www.cars.com/articles/2014/02/common-alternator-problems/ Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Redarc. (Undated). Alternator vs Fixed Alternator. Online available at: https://www.redarc.com.au/alternator-vs-fixed-alternator Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Taylor, D. 2018. Common signs and causes of alternator problems. Online available at: https://www.qxcomponents.co.uk/articles/common-signs-and-causes-of-alternator-problems/ Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Wikipedia. 2018. Alternator. Online available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Accessed on 27 July 2018.

Turbos

What to know!

What do you think of when you hear the word “TURBO”? What is the first image that comes to mind? Does it portray images typical from the Fast & Furious style street racing? Do you see Formula 1 Grand Prix Racing playing off in your mind’s eye, or is it Daytona or Drag racing? Whichever it is, you are on the right path, because all of these have one thing in common: SPEED & POWER. High-performance sports vehicles all have to do with speed and power, and this is the primary function of the turbo – to give more speed and power. Still, not only people into chasing that eluding chequered flag or impressing friends or girls are into turbos; your everyday Tom, Dick and Harry are into them too, but for quite other reasons.

In this article, we will look at the turbo with emphasis on its primary purpose, how it works, its benefits and downsides, as well as the normal maintenance and troubleshooting aspects related to it. Without any further ado, let us see what exactly the purpose of the turbo is.

Primary purpose and how it works

According to Mike Vousden (2016), the simplest way to understand the purpose of a turbo, is to understand that an engine needs to mix fuel and air to run. What a turbo do is it force more air into the cylinder, the air mixes with more fuel, more combustion takes place and this creates more power. Let us be more specific about its working.

In the Car Throttle animation of the working of a turbo, you will notice how cool air (blue) enters the compressor (1). The compressor suck air in, squeeze and heat it up, and then channels it down through the intercooler (2), which cools it down. Cooled, compressed air enters the cylinder’s air intake (left side of the cylinder). Combustion occurs within the cylinder and waste gas (red) from the cylinder exits through the exhaust outlet (right side of the cylinder). These hot waste exhaust gases blow past the turbine fan (3) and make it rotate at high speed. This spinning turbine, mounted on the same shaft as the compressor (1), spins concurrently with the compressor.

The intercooler plays an important role in all of this. Because turbos run at immense speeds and operate under huge pressures and temperatures, an intercooler pairs with the turbocharger to cool the hot air. Something else also assist in a cooling down capacity, namely the oil cooling system. This system ensure the turbo itself does not run too hot. Diesels have tougher engine blocks and simpler intakes, so they are ideally suited for a turbo, which is why most modern diesel vehicles have them.

Benefits

Even though power is the key word, turbos can offer other benefits apart from the pursuit for speed and power. Fuel-efficiency is one such reasons. A turbo engine can make the same power as a normal engine while using less fuel. There are for example 1.0 litre turbo engines on the market that are more fuel-efficient than 1.6 litre engines, while both produce the same power. In the same breath, some people prefer the turbocharged V6 instead of a normal V8, or a turbocharged four-cylinder engine instead of a normal V6.

Turbos also make for a quieter engine because it muffles the sound of the intake. Woodford (2018) adds another very important point easily overlooked. Because turbos burn fuel with more oxygen, they tend to burn it more thoroughly and cleanly, thereby producing less air pollution.

These benefits does not mean that we should send naturally aspirated engines (those without turbos) to their early graves. Turbos do indeed have its downsides, especially the fact that it is yet another component (with moving parts, working under extreme operating conditions) added to a system that is already prone to wear and tear and malfunctioning. Another downside is the so-called turbo-lag. This refers to the time a turbo takes to produce positive pressure in the manifold. What you experience is a short delay in full engine response after pressing down on the accelerator. The point is, if you suddenly have to rely on that extra turbo power, it might not immediately be there because with a turbo-lag, the turbo only kicks in after a very short hesitation, so to speak.

Maintenance

It is as Woodford (2018) say – “There is no such thing as a perfect invention: we can always make something better, cheaper, more efficient, or more environmentally friendly.” The point is, things that are not perfect, will break and wear out and will need replacement. Do not wait until something breaks down, if you practice frequent maintenance of your vehicle’s fluids, components and accessories, you will most likely prolong your vehicle’s working life considerably.

There are several causes of turbo damage, according to the AET Turbo website. These causes are also aspects that you should frequently incorporate in your vehicle’s MAINTENANCE, and we do not refer to its scheduled maintenance but to the one you keep yourself – if ever you do so. If you neglect frequent vehicle care and maintenance, then do yourself a favour and read our article on why maintenance and care is so important. Just click here.

A turbocharger is a precision instrument and it is vulnerable too. Take note of the following that may jeopardise this vulnerability:

Oil / Lubrication

A constant flow of clean oil will have your turbo work effectively. Remember that oil is required at the correct flow rate and pressure to act as a coolant, to lubricate the thrust and journal bearings, but also to stabilise the journal bearings and the rotating shaft. That is why it is important to ensure that you regularly change the oil and the oil filter too. This will help to prevent the build-up of carbon deposits and contaminants. You do not want a build-up of these because it can cause abrasive damage to the inside of your turbocharger, thereby reducing its efficiency and causing irreparable damage over time.

Foreign Objects

Ensure that you service your vehicle’s air filter regularly, and check your turbo for loose connections or debris. What happens is that foreign objects can enter your turbocharger via the compressor or turbine inlets. This can cause impact damage and abrasion to the compressor wheels and turbine blades. Dirty or contaminated oil may also introduce foreign objects to the turbo. The oil filters will surely remove most of the foreign matter, but will it when contaminated and dirty oil is used? Using such oil can be a very costly mistake. Low quality oil can also deteriorate very fast. High engine & turbo temperatures can cause oil to break down, this produces carbonaceous (tarrying) materials that stick to the engine rings, and this can cause problems.

Leaks, Cracks & Poor Seals

If there are any leaks, cracks or poor seals between the compressor and the engine, the turbo will have to work much harder than it should to increase this pressure. This will reduce turbo boost and efficiency. Make sure to check the pipes leading to the turbo; these commonly crack over time.

Not Letting the Turbo Cool Down

This is something few people actually do. Dan Guides (2017) warns against this practice. He suggest that, after a long or aggressive drive, you should never switch the engine straight off. Rather let the engine idle for a minute or so; the reason for doing this is to allow the turbo to spool. If you do not allow for this, you will deprived the turbo of fresh oil during its spooling down session. Over time, this will cause unwanted stress on the turbo.

Troubleshooting

Apart from regular maintenance, you should also be sensitive to any of the following WARNING SIGNS when it comes to your vehicle’s turbo.

Check engine warning light

The check engine light does not only cover turbo failure; if the light goes on then check the turbo but if everything seems fine at the turbo then you will need to do further checks to see what kind of engine problem you have.

The boost gauge

Turbocharged vehicles fitted with a boost gauge, lets you know how much boost your turbo is producing. If your turbocharged vehicle does not have such a gauge, you can have one fitted. If the gauge do not show the amount of boost it used to, then your turbo is most likely in need of attention.

Power loss

If you notice that your vehicle accelerates more slowly than usual, or is not capable of reaching the speeds it once could, this may be a sign that your turbo is failing.

A smoking exhaust

If the turbo housing is cracked or the internal seals has blown, oil will start leaking into the exhaust system. As the leaking oil burns off, it will produce a distinctive blue/grey smoke.

A loud whining noise 

A damaged compressor wheel or a loose pipe will often make a loud, distinctive noise – something in the line of a dentist’s drill. This type of turbo noise is not good and it will require your immediate attention.

This brings us to the epilogue of this discussion. We at Steves Auto Clinic hope that you gained some useful information regarding the turbo. We also hope that this will put you in a position to identify turbo failure swiftly, but also to care for your turbo in a responsible manner. As we pointed out, a turbo is a precision instrument, and if you suspect any issues with your vehicle’s turbo, then rather have a professional work on it. If you have the expertise, then so be it, but otherwise we at Steves Auto Clinic are ready and willing to check and fix your turbo in a swift and friendly manner!

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
AET Turbos. (Undated). Common turbo faults and how to spot them. Online available at: https://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/common-turbo-faults-and-how-to-spot-them/ Accessed on 28 July 2018.
Car Throttle. (Undated). GIF of the basics of how a turbocharger works in tandem with the engine. Online available at: https://www.carthrottle.com/post/nxprym4/ Accessed on 30 July 2018.
Guides, D. 2017. Turbo Problems, Symptoms and Repairs. Online available at: https://procarreviews.com/turbo-problems/ Accessed on 27 July 2018.
Vousden, M. 2016. How do turbos work, and how do they differ from superchargers? Online available at: https://www.carwow.co.uk/guides/glossary/how-turbos-work-superchargers-explained Accessed on 28 July 2018.
Woodford, C. 2018. How turbochargers work. Online available at: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-turbochargers-work.html Accessed on 28 July 2018.

Fuel Injectors

All you need to know

In this article, we will look at what a fuel injector is; we will also look at how an injector goes about doing what it was designed to do, the types of fuel injection in use, and lastly we will tell you more about how to be aware of the problems that fuel injectors may display. If you are uninformed about any or all of these aspects, then this article is for you. Information empowers a vehicle owner to identify vehicle related issues fast. This should then move owners to address such issues by having them fixed. Use your senses: look and listen, smell and feel – but what will you look at, or listen for, and what will a specific odour or touch mean if you do not possess the relevant knowledge to bring it together with these sensory observations?

At Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of automotive servicing and repairs, we aim at giving you the information required to do just that, to bring together that which you see, smell, hear and feel, to what you know. Read on, be empowered, who knows how the following information may one day be of service to you or someone you know!

What is a Fuel Injector?

We know that the major parts in a vehicle work together to make driving possible. It will not be fair to argue that the one is more important than the other is, yet we do that sometimes. People tend to say that their vehicles cannot run without fuel, but how will it run if you short a piston, or a spark plug is broken, or a wheel is missing? To say that the one is insignificant to the other is unfair. Let us look at another point! You have fuel, but how do you think that fuel reaches the point to enable combustion? Combustion can only happen when there is oxygen, fuel and a spark (in the case of petrol engines). The air intake system is designed to deliver oxygen to the cylinder and the fuel injector receives signals from the engine control unit (ECU) and see to it that fuel is injected in correct quantities into the intake manifold or combustion chamber. In a nutshell, the main purpose of the injector is to inject, but without jumping the fence, let us move on to the part where we will look deeper into the working of this little component.

How does it function?

That is a good question, and something that not only inquisitive-minded people should ask, but something that every vehicle owner should ask too. If you know how it functions, then you will know how to treat and troubleshoot it better.

We know that the primary purpose of the fuel injector is to inject the fuel – that could have been deduced from its name right from the beginning of this article, but the working is not that simple. Fuel injectors do not just inject willy-nilly, no, they have to deliver the exact amount of fuel required by the engine, requirements that change fast and frequently. This exact fuel-air mixture required will depend on the type of engine, the fuel used and the requirements of the engine (its power, fuel-economy, exhaust emission levels etc.).

We also know that the injector is a component with electronic controls that receive signals from the ECU to ensure exact fuel delivery. The Wikipedia injector animation may assist you in the further development of this discussion. This then, is what happens to ensure that a fuel injector function according to its design.

Pressurized fuel is delivered to the fuel injectors; the ECU tells the injectors when to open a valve to let the fuel pass through. The fuel pass through an atomizing nozzle (more about atomization later) and the injectors then spray a fine mist of fuel into the engine’s intake manifold or combustion chamber. The mist spray contributes to making the vehicle more fuel-efficient and environmentally friendly by polluting less. The injector is screwed, nozzle side first, into either the inlet manifold or the cylinder head, and at such an angle that the fuel is sprayed towards the inlet valve.

A few words about atomization: according to Khair & Jääskeläinen (2013), fuel atomization is the process that ensure that fuel atomizes into very small fuel particles. This is a primary design objective for diesel fuel injection systems. Small spray droplets ensure that all the fuel has a chance to vaporize and participate in the combustion process. This means better combustion.

There you have it, you now displaced yourself from the circle of people who knows nothing about fuel atomization (and the greater working of the injector), to the much tinier circle of those who do! Knowing what it does and how it works, still tells us nothing about the types of injectors, so let us have a peek at them.

Types of Fuel Injection

Who can remember the days of throttle body fuel injection? That was back in the day when fuel injection was still in its infancy, when it was retrofitted to engines that were designed to use carburettors. Someone once said that the only thing that stays the same is that nothing stays the same, so technology eventually moved forward to the point that different types of fuel injection is in use. Some systems are superior to others, and you may wonder what type of fuel injection your vehicle may use. Let us have a look at the main types of fuel injection.

According to Bruzek (2016), the fuel injection types used in newer vehicles include four basic types: Single-point or throttle body injection; Port or multipoint fuel injection; Sequential fuel injection, and Direct injection.

Single-Point or Throttle-Body Injection (TBI)

The TBI was the earliest and simplest type of fuel injection. It replaced the carburetor with one or two fuel-injector nozzles in the throat of the engine’s air intake manifold (the throttle body). Though not as precise as the systems that followed it, it still metered fuel with better control than a carburetor and is less expensive and easier to service. Due to its high flow rate, it also do not clog up that easy. If you have an issue with an injector, you only have to replace one. The TBI system is not as fuel efficient as modern systems. The system is also unpopular nowadays; people consider it inaccurate because when you lift your foot from the accelerator, there will still be fuel left in the air mixture in your cylinders that can result in a lag before you decelerate; in some vehicles, it can result in unburned fuel sent out through the exhaust.

Port or Multipoint Fuel Injection (MPFI)

This system simply moved the injectors further down towards the cylinders. A separate injector nozzle is devoted to each cylinder, right outside its intake port. That is why some people refer to this system as port injection. Shooting the fuel vapour this close to the intake port ensures that almost all of it will be drawn completely into the cylinder. This system distributes fuel more accurately, with each cylinder receiving its own spray of fuel, this result in better fuel-air ratios. The MPFI virtually eliminates the possibility that fuel will condense or collect in the intake manifold. The downside is that all injectors spray at the same time, while the cylinders fire one after the other. This result in leftover fuel in-between intake periods, or a cylinder firing before the injector had a chance to deliver additional fuel. This systems work great when traveling at consistent speeds, but not when you quickly accelerate or decelerate; it therefore reduces fuel economy and/or performance.

Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI)

Also called sequential port fuel injection (SPFI) or timed injection, this is a type of multiport injection. Recall that in the MPFI system, multiple injectors spray their fuel at the same time or in groups. This downside was addressed through the introduction of the sequential fuel injection, where each injector nozzle triggers independently, matched to your cylinders, allowing the engine to mix the fuel right before the valve opens to suck it in. This resulted in better efficiency and emissions. It also enabled injectors to last longer and remain cleaner than other systems due to fuel not “hanging” around in the chamber. Timed injection is controlled electronically but it can also be controlled mechanically. Because of these advantages, sequential systems are the most common type of fuel injection in vehicles today.

Direct Injection

Direct injection takes the fuel injection concept about as far as it can go, injecting fuel directly into the combustion chambers, past the valves. Even though more common in diesel engines (because the fuel is so much thicker and heavier), direct injection is starting to pop up in petrol engine designs, sometimes called DIG for direct-injection gasoline, where it is almost exclusively used in performance vehicles. Because these vehicles operate with very precise parameters, it is especially important to maintain the fuel delivery system; fuel metering is even more precise than in other injection systems.

That wraps up our quick look at the different injection types mainly found in vehicles. Let us move on to the part where we learn how to identify any injector related problems.

Know and Troubleshoot common Fuel Injector issues

We hammered on this in every other article, and we will continue doing so: the most common causes of component failure, is poor maintenance and general wear and tear. Preventive care is critical when it comes to vehicle maintenance. The problems posed by a faulty fuel injector, should be shared, and as soon as you are familiar with these problems, then the easier it will be for you to diagnose a problem and address it swiftly. After all, you acquired your vehicle for the main purpose of moving between points A and B, and if you either do not possess the diagnostic skills or if you procrastinate on rectifying the problem, then this moving between points A and B will be brought to a dead standstill. If you consider that the injectors are part of the fuel supply system, then you should know that problems with the fuel injectors can cause all sorts of engine performance issues, and these issues may render your vehicle non-functional. Let us therefore look at the most common problems associated with fuel injectors.

Engine misfires and decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel efficiency

According to the yourmechanic website, engine performance issues are one of the most common symptoms of a failing fuel injector. An upset in the fuel-air ratio of the engine may attribute to such performance problems. A faulty fuel injector can cause the vehicle to misfire, to lose power and acceleration, and even to a reduction in fuel efficiency. In severe cases, it can cause stalling or it can prevent the engine from running at all. Have you heard of an engine surge? If the fuel injector sprays too much fuel into the cylinder, this will create a surge in the engine and acceleration will be slower. If an insufficient amount of fuel needed for combustion is supplied, it will place more demand on the injector to supply it with sufficient fuel. When this happens, you can wave your fuel economy good bye.

Dirty & Clogged Fuel Injectors

Fuel additives that do not spray into the intake manifold or combustion chamber can leave a residue on the fuel injectors. These can burn and form a crust because fuel injectors run very hot due to the friction produced. The crust on the fuel injectors can result in a weak spray and an uneven pattern. Fuel injectors can also clog from the build-up of microscopic foreign objects, which are usually in the form of rust. Debris or impurities in the fuel may also contribute to this clogging of the injector. A clogged fuel injector will not be able to supply fuel to the intake manifold or combustion chamber.

Ian Swan (2015) makes an important observation in this regard. Whenever an engine powers down, the combustion chamber have leftover fuel “hanging” around. While the engine cools, the vaporized gases settle on every surface in the combustion chamber, including the fuel injector nozzle. Over time, this residue can reduce how much fuel the injector can deliver to the engine. To reduce this, he suggest that you should let the engine cool down a little before shutting it off. This must be what the “Know your parts” website refers to as HEAT SOAK. They say that when the engine (not the vehicle) stops, the fuel residue evaporates in the injector nozzles, leaving waxy olefins behind. Because the engine is off, there is no cooling airflow moving through the ports and no fuel flowing through the injectors to wash it away, so heat bakes the olefins into hard varnish deposits. Over time, these deposits can build up and clog the injectors. They also warn against dirty injectors in turbocharged engines that can have a dangerous leaning effect, and that may lead to engine-damaging detonation. When the engine is under boost and at a higher rpm, it needs all the fuel the injectors can deliver. If the injectors are dirty and cannot keep up with the engine’s demands, the fuel mixture will lean out, causing detonation to occur. The leaning out may cause higher than normal exhaust temperatures and turbo failure.

Fuel odour

Pro Car Mechanics (2018) points to the fact that the strong smell of fuel in your vehicle may be a sign that your fuel injector is failing. Occasionally, the high-pressurized system of the injector can cause fuel to leak around the connection points of the mechanism. Keep an eye out for any fluids accumulating beneath your vehicle.

Fuel Injector Does Not Open or Close

The valve in the fuel injector might not open as the result of faulty windings or as the result of a rusted fuel injector. The windings might overheat, short out, or break, and rust can cause the valve to stick. In any of these instances, the valve will not open and the fuel injector will be unable to deliver fuel through its nozzle. The valve in the fuel injector might also be unable to close due to a faulty spring or due to a build-up of rust or fuel additives. If the valve is unable to close properly, the fuel injector will leak fuel.

Check Engine Light illuminates

As with most of the other vehicle components, the illuminated Check Engine Light could indicate a faulty injector. A clogged injector or an electrical issue will set off this light. Remember that there are many other reasons apart from the injector that may illuminate the Check Engine Light.

Fuel Injector Leaks

If the mechanism that must cool the injector fail, then the injector can overheat and fail, resulting in a leak. According to the “Know your parts” website, a leaking injector will cause the rail to lose pressure while the vehicle is sitting resulting in a longer than normal crank because the rail will need extra time to pressurize.

Not Enough Resistance – Solenoid

Khair & Jääskeläinen (2013) says that most fuel injection systems use electronics to control the opening and closing of the nozzle. Electrical signals are converted into mechanical forces using some type of actuator, either electromagnetic solenoids (as can be seen in the animation – the one turning red and blue) or active materials such a piezoelectric ceramics. What do you think will happen if something goes wrong with this component? The “Know your parts” website also points to the fact that the solenoid creates a magnetic field that pulls up the injector pintle when the injector is energized. The magnetic field must be strong enough to overcome the spring pressure and fuel pressure above the pintle. If it is not strong enough, the injector may not open all the way, thereby interfering with performance. Short or excessive resistance in the injector solenoid can also cause similar problems.

These then are the symptoms to be on the lookout for, and in the event of any of these manifesting itself, address it. Sometimes an injector fault can easily be remedied, but mostly it will require trained mechanics and technicians to address this. Have an injector balance test done to isolate a faulty injector, or the voltage changes from the O2 sensor checked. Even the pressure loss in the fuel rail can be measured with an electronic injector pulse tester to isolate the problem. At Steves Auto Clinic, we have the means and the expertise to address any injector problems that may arise. Bring your vehicle to the leader in the automotive servicing and repair industry, bring your vehicle to us. We care.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
• Bruzek, J. (2016). What Are The Different Types of Fuel Injection? Online available at: https://www.cars.com/articles/what-are-the-different-types-of-fuel-injection-1420690418419/ Accessed on 31 July 2018.
• How a car works. (Undated). How a fuel injection system works. Online available at: https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-a-fuel-injection-system-works Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Khair, M. K., Jääskeläinen, H. (2013). Diesel Fuel Injection. Ecopoint Inc, Dieselnet.com, Canada. Online available at: https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/diesel_fi.php Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Know your parts. (Undated). When To Replace A Fuel Injector. Online available at: https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/engine/replace-a-fuel-injector/ Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Pro Car Mechanics. 2018. Easy tips to diagnose a faulty fuel injector. Online available at:  https://procarmechanics.com/easy-tips-to-diagnose-a-faulty-fuel-injector/ Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Shedheads. (Undated) Best fuel injector cleaner/types. Online available at: https://shedheads.net/best-fuel-injector-cleaner/types Accessed on 31 July 2018.
• Swan, I. 2015. What Causes Fuel Injectors to Get Clogged or Dirty? Online available at:  https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-causes-fuel-injectors-to-get-clogged-or-dirty Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Wikipedia. 2018. Injector. Online available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Injector3.gif Accessed on 29 July 2018.
• Yourmechanic. (Undated). How to Diagnose a Bad or Failing Fuel Injector? Online available at: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-fuel-injector Accessed on 29 July 2018.

The Steering System

How steering systems work, types of steering systems and possible problems

In this discussion, we will take a deeper look at the steering. I think you may agree when we say that you hardly thought that this system was worth a discussion. I mean, it is after all just a round thing, turned to steer the vehicle. What can be so discussable about that? Indeed it is, but it is also so much more. Just as the brake pedal engage and disengage an entire intricate brake system, and the clutch a more complicated clutch system, so does the steering control an entire steering system that is much more than the sum of its parts – so to say!

During your reading experience, more information regarding the steering will be shared with you, in particular with regard to what it is and how the different types of steering systems work. This will culminate in the part where we look at the signs of any possible problems that you may experience with the steering system. Having knowledge about these aspects of the steering may empower you to identify problems with this system swiftly, and address them even swifter. By doing this, you may save both lives and costly aftercare. Let us then, without any further ado, dive right into this discussion.

Steering – a definition

Microsoft Encarta (2006) defines a steering wheel as the means of guiding a vehicle. It is the wheel in a vehicle that is connected by way of the steering column to the steering gear and is turned to change direction. When we refer to steering, the wheel is but a component making the steering as a system, possible. Within this system, called the steering system, there are other parts that have to work together to make this system function properly. In the following part, you will see how the different application of parts bring about different steering systems. Let us have a look at them.

Steering system types and how it works

There are primarily (and most commonly) two types of steering systems found in vehicles: the rack-and-pinion system and the recirculating-ball steering system. A third type is the hydraulic and electric power-steering system, which is merely a modified rack-and-pinion system, but more about this system later.

Rack-and-pinion

According to Karim Nice (2018) the rack-and-pinion system is a very popular type of steering on vehicles, small trucks and SUVs. This simple mechanism functions in the following way: a shaft that goes all the way down from the steering wheel, has a round gear at the end (called a pinion) that sits on a notched rod (called a rack). See Image 1 as an illustration of this. This rack extends the width of your vehicle and connects to both wheels. When you turn the steering wheel, the pinion rolls through the notches on the rack and pushes the rod to the right or the left, which in turn turns your vehicle’s wheels. That seems simple enough.

Recirculating-ball steering.

The recirculating-ball steering system follows on the heels of the rack-and-pinion system. Karim Nice (2018) points out that many trucks and SUVs use this system, which works in the following manner (Image 2). The recirculating-ball steering contains a worm gear. The worm gear consist of a block of metal with a threaded hole in it and gear teeth cut into the outside of it, which engage a gear that moves the pitman arm. The steering wheel connects to a threaded rod that sticks into the hole in the block. When the steering wheel turns, it turns the threaded bolt, which in turn moves the block, which moves the gear that turns the wheels. Instead of the bolt directly engaging the threads in the block, all of the threads – filled with ball bearings – recirculate through the gear as it turns, thereby creating its name. The ball bearings serves a dual purpose: they reduce friction and wear in the gear and they reduce slop in the gear. Slop is what you will feel when you change steering wheel direction – without the balls in the gear, the teeth would come out of contact with each other for a moment, making the steering wheel feel loose.

Power steering – Hydraulic and Electric

According to Wheelzine (2018), a typical power steering system utilizes the same mechanism as the normal rack and pinion system, with the addition of a hydraulic system that generates the needed power to assist in the steering effort (Image 3).

Part of the rack is modified to form a hydraulic piston and cylinder arrangement. Hydraulic fluid feeds the cylinder on two sides through openings to which two fluid lines are connected. The piston connects to the rack and moves between these two openings (bottom left side of the illustration). When pressurized fluid feeds into any one of the openings, the piston is pushed and it moves to the opposite direction, dragging the rack along with it. At the same time, the other opening vents the fluid out of the piston. A rotary vane pump, driven by the engine through a belt and pulley arrangement, pulls the low-pressure fluid from the reservoir, pressurizes it and then supplying it back to the cylinder in the hydraulic steering system. In this way, it provides power that significantly minimizes the effort needed to steer the vehicle. Thus, effectively, the fluid pressure does most of the steering work while the driver only controls the direction of the turn with the help of a very precise valve system. The hydraulic therefore only assist the steering – the steering wheel stay linked to the wheels in the usual way.

Power steering provides easier manoeuvrability and a better degree of control over the vehicle, which makes driving so much more effort-free. There is a downside to this form of steering. It is considered inefficient because the power steering pump on most vehicles today runs constantly, pumping fluid all the time, and this wastes horsepower. Wasted power translates into wasted fuel.

This was eradicated to a huge degree with the introduction of the electrically assisted power steering, also known as the EPS, as shown in Image 5. By replacing the hydraulic system with an electric motor, the load on the engine was reduced to only those occasions when the steering wheel is turned one way or the other, thereby producing better fuel economy.

In the EPS systems, the hydraulic part is replaced with a computer-controlled electric motor. The electric motor is mounted on either the steering column or the steering gear (usually a rack-and-pinion system); it applies torque to the steering column, thereby assisting the driver to turn the steering wheel. Sensors detect the steering wheel position and any input from the driver; if the driver holds the wheel steady, the system provides no assistance. The EPS improves steering feel and performance; it also offers the advantage of improving fuel economy and can be programmed by the computer for many different attributes.

Innovation – Steer-By-Wire

Technology evolves daily, and do not think that the steering system stagnated in this regard! Karim Nice (2018) draws our attention to the “steer-by-wire” or “drive-by-wire” system (Image 4). This system eliminates the mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the steering system, replacing it with a purely electronic control system (similar to those small steering wheel people buy to play computer games). This system holds sensors that tell the car what the driver is doing with the wheel; the output of these sensors control the motorized steering system. This frees up space in the engine compartment by eliminating the steering shaft; it also reduce vibration inside the car. Observe the connection to the steering system in Image 4. This system includes a clutch that, when the system is in normal use, disengages the mechanical link from the steering column to the steering rack. Whenever a fault is detected in the electronics, the clutch engage, which create a link between the steering wheel and the rack. One downside to this system thus far, is the possibility that the unit’s electronic control can be hacked. Yes, that is not impossible. It will be a while before this system (if ever) is in use in the majority of vehicles.

Steering – be aware of the following

If you are familiar with the content of a major service done by us at Steves Auto Clinic, then you will know that the steering is one of the many components and systems we check for functionality. Imagine for a second the following scenario: You drive at the top speed permitted on a road, and the steering system breaks down – you have NO control over the vehicle! Disaster. Checking your steering system and/or having it checked frequently, is a crucial part of vehicle maintenance and care.

As with any other component and system, the steering system is also prone to have its breakages and problems. Knowledge about the latter will enable you, no, empower you to identify and address any breakages and problems associated with the steering system. Vanessa Atwell (2014) highlights ten of these problems; let us look at them.

Vibration/Shimmying/Shaking While Driving

A vibration felt in the steering wheel are probably the most common problem. It should be noted that the steering system components are not always responsible for this type of behaviour. When vibration occurs during breaking, then it is highly likely that there is a problem with the braking system. Read our article regarding the breaking system here. If the vibration appears and disappears during low speed or during highway speeds, then the problem may be an out of balance wheel assembly, damaged rims, damaged tires or worn steering or suspension components. Because so many systems may be the cause of such a vibration, it is important to quickly determine the faulty system and have it remedied.

Electric Steering – Constantly Stiff

Problems with electric steering systems usually indicate a failure somewhere in the electric power steering system, and it takes a scan tool and service information to properly diagnose and repair the issue. You can do your own diagnosis by checking fuses, checking for binding or damage, checking that wiring is intact and correctly installed and checking that the battery voltage is fine. Attwell (2014), warns us against wiggling or disconnecting & reconnecting electric power steering components because the terminals inside the connectors lose their gripping ability after just a few times of disconnecting & reconnecting them. When this happens, erratic problems may rear their heads. Electric power steering components typically are not repairable – they need replacement.

Electric Steering – Stiff Steering on One Side Only

Whenever electric steering is stiff only in one direction, the usual cause is that the steering system is out of calibration and the usual fix is to recalibrate it.

Hydraulic Steering (Low Assist) – Constantly Stiff

The loss of power assist or low assist is often due to low power steering fluid, a lack of steering fluid pressure or actual steering/suspension components themselves malfunctioning. Start by checking the steering fluid level and condition. If the problem is because of low steering fluid, figure out where the fluid went. If the fluid and level is fine, check for binding components by raising the wheels off the ground (if you can) and moving them slowly from side to side to verify free movement. Moving the wheels too quickly can cause the fluid to shoot out through the pump and make a mess when the system is not running. Sometimes leaks hide themselves inside the dust bellows on the rack and can only be identified by removing the clamp. Ensure you have a new clamp available to install in case you are wrong. If you do not know how to do any of these, then please refrain from doing it and have it done by professionals, such as us. If the wheels move smoothly when lifted off the ground, then the problem is most likely in the steering assist system rather than in the binding components. Blockages and restricted passages do happen, but a faulty serpentine belt or the pump itself can also cause a lack of power steering fluid pressure. If the wheels cannot be moved when raised off the ground (with the steering column unlocked), then the problem is probably a bent, seized or damaged component that will need to be replaced.

Hydraulic Steering – Occasionally Stiff

This problem may arise due to aerated power steering fluid or binding steering components. Inspect the condition of the power steering fluid; if it smells funny or is a strange colour, it may be contaminated. While you are at it, check for tiny particles that may be present in the fluid. If any, flush and replace the contaminated fluid.

Hydraulic Steering – Not Returning to Centre after a Turn

A slight binding in steering or suspension components usually causes this problem, and unfortunately it often happens after an impact with something like a curb, or after a drastic change in alignment angles. The solution is to have it inspected for damaged or bent steering components and to correct the alignment angles accordingly.

Leaks – Visible on Driveway or Parking

Hydraulic leaks usually come from leaking seals, O-rings, crimps or from incorrectly topping up the fluid, (some people wrongly use transmission fluid as a substitute for steering fluid). Try to identify the origin of the leak and have it fixed. Hydraulic hoses deteriorate over time, and this is something that you should sporadically inspect. If you see a cracked and dry hose, have it replaced. Remember, if the pump runs out of fluid for whatever reason, it will burn out, so prevent unnecessary expenditure and problems by addressing any leakages.

Steering Wheel Off-Centre

If the vehicle travels straight down the road but the steering wheel is off-centre, the most common reason is a problem with alignment angles, possibly due to bent or damaged suspension or steering components. Identifying these bents is not easy, so have it checked by professionals and have it corrected.

Steering Pulls or Drifts

To fix this problem, you should consider performing a four-wheel alignment and correct the alignment angles, but uneven tire pressure and poor tire condition can also be the cause of this problem. It is also easy enough to check that the vehicle is the same height from side to side. If not, suspect suspension problems or a flat tire.

Squeals

A squealing noise, whether it is irregular or constant, can be caused by a problem in the belt or pulleys, and not necessarily by the steering pump pulley itself. You can diagnose this problem by removing the belt (make sure to mark the direction of rotation first) and spinning all of the pulleys by hand, checking for problems, binding and free play in all of the pulleys. If you do not know how to do this, refrain from doing it, rather have professionals do it for you. The belt tensioner should also be inspected to ensure that it provides enough tension and that there is no cracks, glazing, missing chunks or contamination of the belt because they do tend to fail too.

Uncontrollable Steering

One aspect that Vanessa Atwell (2014) did not include in her ten steering issues, is the one of uncontrollable steering, which may be caused by a damaged steering rack mount. If you experience steering of this nature, and if any of the abovementioned problems do not assist you in addressing this problem, then you may as well have the steering rack mount inspected. You can fix this (if it is the problem) on your own (if you know how), but you may also best be serviced by a certified mechanic, and we have plenty of them.

This brings us to the end of this article. It is said that your vehicle’s steering is the only system that you are quite literally always in touch with. Think about it, the steering wheel demands hands-on (or sometimes less advisable “knees-on”) control all of the time. Listen, feel and look at steering related issues as mentioned in this article. Never postpone any problem related with this system, for you can be sure that if you do, you may only regret it later. At Steves Auto Clinic, we do not deal in regrets but in precaution. We give advice on vehicle maintenance and care, we service vehicles and we inspect and repair that which is broken or dilapidated. Bring your vehicle to us for friendly and professional service.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:
• Microsoft Encarta. 2006. Steering wheel. Definition. Microsoft Corporation.
• Nice, K. 2018. How Car Steering Works. Online available at: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering.htm Accessed on 31 July 2018.
• Wheezine. 2018. How does power steering work? Online available at: https://wheelzine.com/how-does-power-steering-work Accessed on 31 July 2018.
• Attwell, V. 2014. Top 10 Steering Problems and their Fixes. Online available at: https://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/undercar-service-repair/top-10-steering-problems-and-their-fixes Accessed on 31 July 2018.

Images used in this article:
• Image 1. – Rack-and-pinion. Online available at: http://www.technologystudent.com/gears1/gears4.htm Accessed on 2 Aug 2018
• Image 2. – Worm and roller steering. (Amended). Online available at: https://www.indiamart.com/ohmpower/worm-and-roller-steering-gear-model.html Accessed on 2 Aug 2018
• Image 3. – Power steering. Online available at: http://www.ognibene.com/en/video/splash-page Accessed on 2 Aug 2018
• Image 4. – Electrically assisted power steering (EPS). (Amended). Online available at: http://www.radianceiitb.org/blog/power-steering/ Accessed on 2 Aug 2018
• Image 5. – Steer-by-wire. (Amended). Online available at: http://www.ognibene.com/en/video/splash-page Accessed on 2 Aug 2018

Suspension System

Suspension Components, Types and Issues

The suspension of your vehicle is another system of the vehicle that vehicle owners easily take for granted, maybe because it is mainly out of sight and out of mind. It is easy to underestimate the importance of this system and we hope to rectify this.

Harris (2017) mentions an important aspect to consider when discussing the importance of the suspension, namely that of vehicle dynamics (the study of the forces at work on a moving vehicle). Automobile engineers consider these dynamics from two perspectives: the ride (a vehicle’s ability to smooth out a bumpy road) and handling (a vehicle’s ability to safely accelerate, brake and corner). These two perspectives, the ride and the handling, encompass three important principles – road isolation, road holding and cornering. Each of these three principles present its own set of problems, and this is where the suspension comes into play. It is the suspension, with its various components, that provides solutions to all the problems that these three principles present. The suspension system is mainly responsible for reducing the uncomfortable effects whenever you drive over any uneven surface. Imperfections on any road surface make for a bumpy ride, so you need a system that will absorb the energy of the wheels, allowing the frame and body to ride undisturbed, while the wheels follow bumps in the road. This is where the system of springs and shock absorbers (as part of the suspension system) comes into play; it reduces the impact of bumps and it gives the driver and occupants in a vehicle a more comfortable ride. Apart from giving more comfort, the suspension also improves vehicle safety and performance. After all, what is the use of having all the desired power and acceleration, but lacking the ability to control the vehicle?

The suspension is not as simple as some may think. Tom Esposito (2016) highlights this complexity when he says that there are many parts involved that makes this system not only very complex but also see to it that the system function properly. The suspension system consist of several components, including the chassis, which holds the cab of the vehicle. He mentions six components that are basic to any suspension system, namely the springs (that supports the weight of the vehicle and absorb excess energy from road shocks), the dampers (shock absorbers) and the struts. The anti-sway bar (that shifts the movement of the wheels and stabilizes the vehicle), the ball joints, and the spindle.

If you are not enlightened about the suspension as a system and the components mentioned here that make up this system, then this article have one aim – to enlighten you about the extent and importance of this system, about the different types of suspensions, as well as to draw your attention to suspension related issues you may encounter.

Suspension Components

Springs

The following types of springs may be found in a suspension system.

Coil Springs

These are the most common types of springs in use; they compress and expand to absorb motion. A coil spring is actually a heavy-duty torsion bar coiled around an axis, wound in a spiral shape. Springs rarely need maintenance or replacement.

Leaf Springs

These springs are mainly in use in heavy-duty vehicles and trucks. You may picture this type of spring as the ones used on horse-drawn carriages. It consist of several layers of leaf metal bound together as one leaf.

Dampers

The presence of dampening structures in a vehicle’s suspension system is important because if there are only springs present, the vehicle will still give a bumpy ride. This is because a spring will extend and release the energy it absorbs from a bump at an uncontrolled rate until all of the input energy is depleted. The following dampening components make sure that this is reduced to a greater degree.

Shock Absorbers

The shock absorbers will not be discussed here because it is discussed separately as part of its own article.

Suspension Struts

This is basically a shock absorber mounted inside a coil spring. Struts perform mainly two jobs; dampening shocks like shock absorbers and it also provides structural support for the vehicle’s suspension. Follow the link mentioned above if you want to read more about the strut.

Torsion Bar

In the case of a torsion bar, the twisting properties of a steel bar provides coil-spring like results. One end of the steel bar is anchored to the frame of the vehicle while the other end of the bar is attached to a wishbone. Whenever the vehicle encounters a bump, the vertical motion transfers to the wishbone and then to the torsion bar, which twists along its axis to provide the required spring force.

Anti-sway / Anti-Roll Bars

These metal rods span the entire length of the axle and effectively joins each side of the suspension together. Working together with the shocks or struts, they give additional stability in the form of a level ride and sway reduction. Tom Esposito (2016) explains why these bars are of importance. When cornering, or turning, forces want to roll your vehicle’s body to the outside of the turn. Anti-sway/roll bars work to counteract this force and keep the wheels in contact with the ground.

Ball Joints

The ball joint is a pivot between the wheels and the suspension of your vehicle. In the front suspension, on most vehicles, there are upper and lower ball joints on both sides.

Spindle / Upright

In an automobile, the spindle is a part of the suspension system that carries the hub for the wheel and attaches to the upper and lower control arms.

These are then the main parts of the suspension system, and we will see why they merit mentioning when we come to the part about taking care of your suspension and identifying possible problem areas with the suspension. Before we do that, let us have a look at the different types of suspensions used in motor vehicles.

Types Of Suspension

There is indeed not only one type of suspension for all vehicles; there are different types of suspension and they greatly rely on axle arrangement. Suspension can be either dependent or independent front or rear. Let me explain.

Dependent Front

This type of suspension have a rigid front axle that connects the front wheels with each other (the left and right wheels share a single, solid axle). It is not a very preferable type because it makes your vehicle prone to swaying; it is also difficult to adjust wheel alignment, and it increases weight due to the lack of springs.

Independent Front

Wheels move independent of each other.

MacPherson Strut

This is the most widely used type of front suspension because it is a single cohesive unit. It combines a shock absorber and a coil spring as one unit.

Double Wishbone (A-Arm)

Two wishbone arms connect to the wheel, the system incorporates coil springs and shock absorbers to absorb vibrations. Each wishbone, which has two mounting positions to the frame and one at the wheel. The coil spring and damper are on a strut linked to the bottom wishbone and chassis. This type of suspension minimizes sway and works well in larger vehicles.

Trailing Arm

This is very similar to a double wishbone, with the difference that it have specially shaped suspension arms connected to the chassis that moves parallel to it. This is an older system and best recognizable by that of a VW Beetle suspension.

Twin I-Beam

Exclusively used in Ford’s F-series trucks; it is a mixture of a solid beam axle (split in two) with a trailing arm suspension, thereby excluding the dependent front suspension issues.

Transverse Leaf Spring

With the leaf spring positioned across the entire width of the vehicle, it connects to the lower A-arms of the double wishbone on both sides. The centre of the leaf spring is mounted to the vehicle’s subframe.

Dependent Rear

Rear suspensions have greater latitude because they do not consider the steering mechanism.

Solid Axle

With this type of suspension, you can either have a leaf- or coil springs mounted on both ends of the drive axle.

4-Bar

Applicable to both front- and rear-wheel drive vehicles, it can be considered the favourite system in street- and classic hot rods.

Independent Rear

The same independent front system can be used in the rear. If both the front and back suspensions are independent, then all of the wheels are mounted and sprung individually, resulting in four-wheel independent suspension.

De Dion

This is a combination of a trailing arm fully independent suspension and a solid beam axle suspension. This system gives better traction; the extra weight due to a lack of springs is also reduced. The downside to this system is that it requires two CV joints for every axle; brake replacement is also a difficult task due to the placement of the brakes.

Suspension Issues

We looked at the main suspension components, and as in the case of any component that wears down, so a worn suspension component may reduce the stability of the vehicle and reduce driver control. An already worn component will also accelerate wear on other suspension components. Always keep that in mind. Components such as shocks and struts (not to downplay other components) have so much to do with the handling of a vehicle, that they can be considered critical safety features. A worn shock and strut can allow excessive vehicle-weight transfer from side to side and front to back, which reduces the tyre’s ability to grip the road and to perform well during handling and braking.

Suspension issues can be difficult to diagnose. Faulty suspension components can wreak havoc on your vehicle and make it unsafe to drive, so please do pay attention to how your vehicle handles. Listen for any strange noises and address any problems immediately. Let us look at the most common suspension issues, as highlighted by Harris (2017).

Rough vehicle ride

When shocks or struts are wearing out, you may begin to feel every bump in the road. A rough ride is an obvious sign that your vehicle’s suspension needs attention. If you have a suspicion of worn shocks or struts, you can always try the bounce test… With your vehicle in park, place all of your body weight on the front end, release and observe how the vehicle responds. If it bounces back and forth three or more times, it might be due to worn shocks and/or struts that need replacing. Shocks keep your tyres on the road; when they cannot do this anymore, your vehicle will bounce all over the place.

A worn out leaf spring can also contribute to a bouncy ride. The presence of a busted leaf spring can be verified by checking if the vehicle lean back while in a parked position. Vehicles with leaf springs are designed to be nose down to accommodate extra weight in the rear. If your vehicle appears to sit level, it could be extra proof of an issue with a leaf spring.

Drifting or pulling during turns

With a failing suspension system, you will feel the vehicle “drift” or “pull” when you are turning. This may happen when the shocks are no longer keeping the vehicle’s body stable against the centrifugal force of a turn, increasing your risk of a rollover. If you feel this sensation while turning, have it checked.

Nose-dives or squats when braking

When your vehicle’s body lurch forward and downward nose-first when you apply the brakes firmly, it might be a sign of worn shocks. This is dangerous because it will affect your ability to stop your vehicle in time, if needed. Give attention to your vehicle’s shocks or struts whenever you notice the following additional signs: your vehicle “rolls” to the side when cornering (it leans side-to-side); your vehicle “squats” during acceleration (it leans backward).

Uneven tyre treads

If you notice that your tyre’s tread is wearing down unevenly, or if you notice balding spots, this is often a symptom that the suspension is not holding the vehicle evenly. Have this looked at.

Oily shocks

Have a look at the shocks or struts of your vehicle. If they look greasy or oily, there is a good chance they are leaking fluid and are not working properly. Address this issue by having it verified and replaced.

Pulling to one side while driving

A vehicle pulling to either side is a common sign of suspension problems but it can also be something else that is wrong. Any of the following may be reasons for such a pull: uneven tyre pressure, uneven tyre wear, poor alignment, bad tie rods or steering rack, or even a sticking brake calliper.

One corner of the vehicle is sitting low

When your vehicle is standing still on a level piece of ground, but one corner sits lower than the other does, you likely have a damaged spring. A clunking noise when going over a bump may confirm this. Cornering will also be compromised because a damaged spring cannot support the weight. Test the springs by pushing down on the trunk. On release listen to how the suspension reacts. If you hear a creaking or squealing sound, you definitely have a problem with the shocks, springs, bushings or related parts, so have it addressed.

Bump steer

A poorly aligned suspension can cause your vehicle’s wheels to be oriented at such an angle that any little bump will make it turn to either side.

These are the eight most common symptoms and causes of suspension problems. You may prevent these by following a few very simple measures:

• Check your owner’s manual (if available) for an estimate of your damper and suspension system lifespan.
• Make sure you know when to replace your shocks and struts – this will depend greatly on your driving style and road conditions under which you drive.
• Check your shocks or struts frequently for any leakages.
• Pay attention to how your vehicle handles. If you notice the ride becoming more and more bouncy and uncomfortable, take your vehicle to have the suspension system checked.
• Have your vehicle’s ball joints checked at least twice a year as they can wear and can cause your vehicle to wander. Ball joints can separate and cause you to lose control.

The suspension system is one of the most important aspects to your comfort and safety when you are driving. If you suspect that there is a problem with your vehicle’s suspension system, schedule an appointment and bring it to your nearest Steves Auto Clinic right away. Your safety and the safety of others depends on a suspension system that is in a good working condition.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Bonnici, D. 2016. Car Suspension: What it is and how it works. Online available at: https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-advice/car-suspension-what-it-is-and-how-it-works
  Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Collins, D. 2018. Complete guide to Car Suspensions. Online available at: https://www.carbibles.com Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Esposito, T. 2016. 7 Warning signs that your car has a suspension system problem. Online available at: http://www.autotechwestislip.com/7-warning-signs-that-your-car-has-a-suspension-system-problem/ Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Harris, W. 2017. How car suspensions work. Online available at: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-suspension.htm Accessed on 4 August 2018.

Images used in this article:

• RDC Automotive. Online availbale at: https://www.tdcautomotive.com/eibach-pro-kit-lowering-springs-front-only-30-mm-e7011-120.html Accessed on 22 Aug 2018
• BDS leaf springs. Online available at: https://www.realtruck.com/bds-leaf-springs/ Accessed on 22 Aug 2018

Shock Absorbers and Struts

The function, types and troubleshooting of Shock Absorbers

Dampers, or better known as shock absorbers and struts, are vehicle components that many vehicle owners under valuate. The only way to realize the full value of shock absorbers and struts is when they start to malfunction.

In this article, we will take you on a short journey through the land of dampers and on the way, we will acquaint you with what shock absorbers and struts are. You will also see what the different types of absorbers in use are and how to troubleshoot shock absorber and strut faults.

What are Shock Absorbers?

On a physical level, shock absorbers are basically oil pumps; a piston is attached to the end of a piston rod and works against hydraulic fluid in the pressure tube. As the suspension goes up and down, the hydraulic fluid is forced through tiny holes inside the piston. Only a small amount of fluid is passed through these holes, so the piston is slowed which in turn slows down spring and suspension movement. Shock absorbers automatically adjust to road conditions because the faster the suspension moves, the more resistance they provide – this is why they are also referred to as velocity sensitive hydraulic damping devices.

On a scientific level, shock absorbers take the kinetic energy (movement) of your suspension and converts it to thermal energy (heat) that is then dispersed into the atmosphere through the process of heat exchange.

On a practical level, shock absorbers sustain a comfortable ride by (a) absorbing any vibrations, jolts or bounces while driving, and (b) keeping all of your tyres in contact with the road at all times.

Types of Shock Absorbers

There are three common types of dampers:

Telescopic shock absorbers

This is your most basic type of shock absorber and when it becomes damaged or reached the end of its lifespan, it is replaced rather than repaired. It can be fitted to both the rear and front suspensions and is not expensive.

Strut type shock absorbers

This type of shock absorber replace part of the suspension system, which means they are built stronger in order to handle larger loads and forces. The strut type shock absorbers can be replaced or repaired, that is why they are available in both sealed and repairable units. They are also more expensive than your common shock absorber.

Spring seat shock absorbers

This type of shock absorber shares qualities from both the telescopic and strut type dampers. Much like struts, a spring seat shock is both a suspension unit and a damping device, all in one. They are not built to sustain large loads (as in the case of the strut type), and once damaged, you will have to replace the entire unit.

What is the difference between Shocks and Struts?

In this article, the terms shock absorber and strut are used together because many people refer to them in the same way, as if they were interchangeable. These two parts do indeed serve a similar purpose, but they work in different ways, so let me quickly explain the difference between the two components. Image 1 will serve as an illustration in this regard.

To lean on shockwarehouse, the major differences between struts (left side of the image) and shock absorbers (right side of the image) are that struts are a structural part of a vehicle’s suspension system, while shock absorbers are not. You cannot use a shock absorber to replace a strut and you cannot use a strut to replace a shock absorber. A strut is a crucial part of the vehicles steering system because it greatly affects alignment angles; because of this, an alignment must always be done when a strut is replaced. Furthermore, a vehicle will have either a shock absorber or a strut at each wheel, never both. Every vehicle was also designed with either shock absorbers or struts and your vehicle’s suspension cannot be changed to use the other.

This then is the major differences between these two components. As any other component, so are these prone to failure; let us therefore have a look at how to identify problems related to failing shock absorbers and struts.

Troubleshooting

It is important to be aware of failing shock absorbers and struts. Pay attention to the following warning signs and have them addressed if ever they cross your path.

Nosedives & Squats

When you apply the brakes and the front end of your vehicle dips forward (nosedives), there might be a problem with the shock absorbers or struts. When you accelerate and the entire backside of your vehicle sinks down (squat), then there might be a problem with your vehicle’s shock absorbers or struts.

Excessive Bouncing

Bouncing on rough roads is perfectly normal, but when it is excessive, for example when it causes you to be bounced off your seat, then you may have difficulties with the shock absorbers or the struts.

Tyre Wear

Make sure to inspect your tyres regularly. Shock absorbers and struts keep your vehicle’s tyres on the road, and the moment it cannot do this anymore, there will be irregular road contact, which will result in uneven tyre wear.

Leaking Fluid

Piston and hydraulic fluid within the shock absorbers may leak. If you notice any leaks in this area, have it checked and rectified.

Difficulty Handling

When you drive under normal conditions (no winds or surface water throwing your vehicle off course) and you experience your vehicle shifting from side to side, it is highly likely that there is something wrong with the shock absorbers and struts. Have these and the entire suspension system checked.

Delayed stopping distances

Worn shock absorbers can increase your braking distance considerably, thereby decreasing your ability to execute a safe stop and avoiding an accident. There may be other causes for a delay in braking that is not related to shock absorbers. If you experience delayed stopping then have it checked and corrected immediately.

Excessive steering wheel vibration

Normal vibration when driving over an uneven surface is okay, but if the vibration remains while driving over a smoother surface, then it may be something you need to address. There are a few possibilities why this may be the case, and one of these are shock absorber or strut issues. Be safe and have your vehicle inspected for the origin of the vibration.

Cracked bushings

At each end of the shock absorber, there is a point where the shock absorber is bolted to the vehicle. These points have rubber bushings and if the bushings crack or break, you may hear a tapping when you drive over a bump. If this is the case, have the bushings replaced.

This concludes our discussion on the troubleshooting of the shock absorbers and struts. If you are still not sure about the presence of a faulty shock absorber or strut component, then you may consider doing the bounce test. Simply push down on the front or the rear end of the vehicle as hard as you can. When you remove your hands and there is no bounce, then your damper components are fine, but if there is a bounce, then you should consider having those components checked.

If you are unsure about when to have the shock absorbers and struts replaced, then simply have them checked during normal service sessions, and do not forget the bounce test. Also, do keep in mind that your driving conditions and driving style will play an important role in determining when to change shock absorbers and struts.

Feel free at any time to bring your vehicle to one of Steves Auto Clinic’s branches and have your shock absorbers and struts inspected. We have the expertise and the equipment to handle any damper-related issue. Prevention, at the end of the day, is far better than cure. Safe driving!

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Firestone. 2017. Is your car “cursed?” 6 Noticeable symptoms of worn shocks.
• Online available at: https://blog.firestonecompleteautocare.com/alignment/symptoms-of-worn-shocks/ Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Shockwarehouse. (Undated). What is the difference between shocks and struts? Online available at: https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/differenceshocksstruts.cfm Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Sunautoservice. (Undated). The difference between shocks and struts. Online available at: https://www.sunautoservice.com/about-us/shop-talk/2017/march/16/the-difference-between-shocks-and-struts Accessed on 4 August 2018.
• Tlmotors. 2015. The difference between shocks and struts, and when do we need to replace them? Online available at: https://www.tlmotors.com/blog/the-difference-between-shocks-and-struts-2c-and-when-do-we-need-to-replace-them-3f Accessed on 4 August 2018.

Images used in this article:

• Image 1. – Ford Racing Strut/Shock Kit. Online available at https://www.levittownfordparts.com/ford-racing-strutshock-cobra-p-1753.html Accessed on 23 Aug 2018

Cambelts and Timing Chains

What is Timing Belts and Chains, how do they work and Troubleshooting

In this informative article, we will look at yet another essential vehicle component that may bring about costly damages if taken for granted. Yes, we talk about the cambelt, also referred to as the timing belt. This belt is responsible for synchronizing the crank and camshaft rotation to ensure that valves open and close correctly. We will learn in due course how exactly the belt system works and talk more about the belt and chain itself. We will also dedicate time to the very important point of troubleshooting when it comes to this important component. You will realise the importance of this component at the end of our discussion; the ball will then be in your court, and whether you hit it back or not, will be entirely up to you!

Let us start our discussion by clearing the fog regarding the timing BELT and timing CHAIN issue.

What is a Timing Chain and a Timing Belt

According to AA Motoring (2016), it was common for vehicles to have a chain driven camshaft, but that changed in the 1990s when manufacturers adopted the cambelt (timing belt). The main reason for this change was to help reduce engine noise. You can think for yourself the difference in noise between a belt and a chain. So everything went well, in the noise way, but not in the wallet way! Around 2005, most manufacturers decided to bring back the chain system because consumers wanted lower maintenance costs. Manufacturers therefore spent considerable amounts of time and effort introducing improvements that eliminated many of the drawbacks of the older chain system. Let us see why they did this, and why vehicle owners preferred the reintroduction of the chain, rather than the belt system.

Timing Belts

Timing Belts is made up of rubber and high tensile fibre, which makes them quieter than timing chain driven vehicles. The belt has teeth that fit into slots on your vehicle to hold the belt in place. If your timing belt is too loose, or too tight it can either slip or add excessive pressure, which can cause the belt to break and result in havoc. A cambelt will last you between 60 000 and 100 000 kilometre (or round about five years) before it needs replacement (depending on the cambelt’s age and the manufacturer’s specifications). Cambelt replacement is a very costly job, and the most thorough way to replace a cambelt is to replace other relevant components at the same time.

Timing chains

Timing chains consists of steel and lasts much longer than timing belts because they do not tend to break or wear down that easily. Improvements to the new chain system included the introduction of oil pressure and spring-loaded tensioners; these help to keep the chain stretched and quiet. Modern engines employ chain guides to silence the chain and to minimise vibrations. Maintenance on timing chains are less than timing belts because they offer a better lifespans and should last for the life of the engine (in most cases); this means that servicing costs will be less (if any). You may now make the logical deduction that chains are the chosen one above belts, but do not think for one moment that the new chain system reached its perfection! Even though chains tend not to break, they can stretch over time because they too face the worst nightmare of most vehicle components: wear and tear. This story therefore do not have a happy conclusion because if a timing chain need to be replaced, the cost of such a replacement can be significantly higher than that of a regular cambelt replacement. The good news however, is that this is a rare occurrence, so the core of the timing chain justification is that general maintenance is still less than that of a vehicle with a timing belt.

This will give you a better understanding of the difference between the cambelt and the timing time. The choice between a cambelt driven vehicle, or a timing chain driven one, will ultimately be your own personal one. Now that we know something more about the difference, we will need to have a peek at how it functions within the greater scheme of things.

How It Works

We already know that the timing belt have teeth and that it fits into slots, but that does not say much about how it works and why the belt (or chain) is so important, so let us address this. During the combustion process, the movement of the valves and the pistons need to happen in such a way that they do not collide with one another. The timing has to be perfect to prevent them from colliding with one another, and the emphasis is on TIMING. Now we should wonder why the chain and belt is called a timing belt or timing chain! We knew you would get it! The toothed timing belt (or roller chain) connects the crankshaft (for piston movement) to the camshaft (for valve movement); as such, it makes sure that each valve opens and closes at precisely the right time with relation to piston movement. In other words, it keeps your engine synchronised. In some engine designs, the timing belt/chain also drives other engine components, such as the water pumps and oil pump.

TROUBLESHOOTING

We have learned what the timing belt/chain is and how it works. Their most important purpose, as we have seen, are to ensure synchronisation. What do you think will happen when the belt malfunctions? Yes, timing will be out and this WILL cause serious damage. The most common outcome will be bent valves (the pistons colliding with the valves), but it can also damage the cylinder head or the camshaft itself. We think it is safe to say that you do not want this to happen. It is therefore important to remember that a cambelt or timing chain will deteriorate; as long as they are subjected to engine heat and varying weather conditions, cambelts can stretch, crack, and ultimately break. It is therefore important to be aware of belt or chain failure. If your vehicle lack an engine management sensor that will hopefully alert you if the camshaft and crank shaft are no longer synchronised with one another, then you should be extra attentive to any of the signs that are about to be highlighted.

Starting Issues

If your vehicle do not want to start at all, then there may be an issue with the cambelt because the camshaft will not rotate when the crankshaft turns. A broken cambelt can be diagnosed by observing the camshaft while turning the crankshaft. No movement from the camshaft may indicate a broken timing belt. Do also entertain any other possible cause whenever your vehicle fails to start.

Engine misfires

A worn out timing belt may have an impact on the engine’s firing rate. What may happen is that the timing belt may slip on the camshaft drive and cause one cylinder to open or close earlier than it should, and this will cause a misfire. For this to happen, most or all of the teeth on the belt will have had to deteriorate. A misfire situation may also increase black smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe.

Visual Inspection

Do not hesitate to inspect the cambelt visually. If it is worn, the belt will look glazed on the underside. This may indicate hard rubber, and hard rubber will not provide the required flexibility. Look for any cracks or unravelling of the belt. You can also press a screwdriver tip (or something similar) gently onto the belt itself, and if the applied pressure leaves no mark, then the rubber is probably too stiff. If you are unsure about the physically correct condition of the belt, then have it inspected by one of our professional mechanics. Remember the old adage – prevention is better than cure.

Noise

The cambelt is toothed, so it does not slip like a serpentine or V-belt. Sometimes, a cambelt will produce a loud noise; it can be a shrieking, grinding or rattling kind of sound. Shrieking is common for a loose belt, which can indicate wear and the need for replacement. If a new belt makes a noise, then check the tension of the belt and adjust it or have it adjusted. Do keep in mind that the noise may also come from anything else not directly related to the belt or chain itself. One example is a failing water pump pulley. If the bearings in the pulley fail, they will make a loud noise, eventually seize, and the water pump will stop to function. You do not want this to happen because your engine will overheat and that will be a costly mistake.

Oil leakage

If you notice an oil leakage in the front of the engine, then inspect the area of the timing belt/chain. The timing belt/chain cover is secured by nuts and bolts that may loosen over time and cause a leakage. Even the gasket between the engine block and the timing cover may wear out or crack, so have this checked as well. Remember that oil ensure lubrication and heat reduction; have any leakage fixed as soon as possible to prevent damage.

In the event of you suspecting any fault with your timing belt or timing chain, and you do not possess the knowledge to address the issue, then find your way to the nearest Steves Auto Clinic. We offer friendly and professional service. As a leader in the field of automotive repairs and servicing, we are a family group that wants to make you part of the family.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• AA Motoring. 2016. Engine maintenance – cambelts and chains. Online available at: https://www.aa.co.nz/cars/motoring-blog/engine-maintenance-cambelts-and-chains/ Accessed on 7 August 2018.

The Wheel Bearing

What wheel bearings are, what cause damages and the signs of damage

The wheel bearing may be one of the most overlooked yet highly critical parts of the drive-axle and steering assembly. The wheel bearings are essential in the operation of your vehicle; they allow friction-reduced movement and rotation of the hub assembly, and thereby provides smooth tyre and wheel rotation. Think for a moment what would happen if you are driving along, with your loved ones, and a wheel bearing fails. When a wheel bearing goes bad, you are in for some trouble.

Wheel bearings are components we usually take for granted and we rarely consider that they might need replacement at some stage. In this article, we at Steves Auto Clinic wish to rectify this. We hope to instil in you an awareness and appreciation for this component, and that this will make you an informed vehicle owner, because we believe that informed vehicle owners are owners who take better care of their vehicles.

Let us start this process by looking at what a wheel bearing is.

What are Wheel Bearings?

That is a question that Rob King (2016), also asked, and his answer is very simple – they are bearings, for the wheels! Jokes aside, wheels usually bolt onto a wheel hub and at the centre of that, you will find the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing allows the wheel to rotate in a smooth friction-reduced manner. Most wheel bearings use tapered roller bearings (as seen in the image) that consist of a set of spherical steel balls held in line by a metal track called a race; this is usually sealed up with high-temperature grease. Roller bearings are generally used on the driven wheels of a vehicle, while tapered bearings are predominantly used on the non-driven wheels. The wheel bearing is a single component that is pressed into the hub itself. The fit is so tight that there is no chance of it popping out, but there is usually a circlip in front of the bearing to prevent this.

This is basically what a wheel bearing is and how it functions. Even though wheel bearings are engineered to last a very long time, they will eventually lose their lubricity, wear out, and will need to be replaced, but how will you know when the time is ripe for such a replacement? Let us have a look at the most commonly known signs of wheel bearing failure.

Signs of a bad Wheel Bearing

With most vehicle components, troubleshooting is not that difficult, but as Rob King (2016) rightly points out, it is very difficult for the average vehicle owner to tell when a wheel bearing starts to fail. No, we do not underestimated the intellect of the average driver; it is the manifestation of a bad bearing that is so treacherous. You see, the noise made by a bad bearing (described as a whirring, grounding, droning sound), starts out quiet, and the longer you leave it unattended, the louder it will become. As if this is not enough, King points to the fact that it is especially difficult to figure out which of the four bearings is busy failing. What makes it so difficult is that the sound it makes can echo through the vehicle, making the pinpointing a nightmare. The only certain way to identify the culprit bearing is to jack the vehicle up and manually rotate each wheel. The wheel that sounds different from the rest when it rotates and have a play in side-to-side wheel movement is most certainly the wheel with the faulty wheel bearing.

You should keep this in mind when contemplating any wheel bearing issues; let us take a look at those signs that is more visible.

Does your vehicle feel loose?

Here we refer to wheel looseness (wheel play), which is a common symptom of a bad wheel bearing. As a bearing wears down, it becomes loose inside the wheel hub and spindle, and that will make your vehicle feel loose while driving.

Does your vehicle pull to one side?

A corroded or pitted wheel bearing will lose the smooth exterior lining and any vibration will then be transmitted to the tyres of the vehicle. Your vehicle may then feel like it is pulling to one or the other side.

Any vibration in the steering?

A vibration in the steering wheel can be caused by a worn out wheel bearing. This vibration will usually be noticed at slow speeds and progressively get worse as the vehicle accelerates. It is true that other issues may also cause this vibration, so be sure to entertain other possibilities.

Uneven tyre wear?

A faulty wheel bearing can lead to uneven tyre wear. It is very rare for wheel bearings to wear evenly, so if you discover uneven tyre wear, then consider the possibility of a faulty bearing. It is true that other issues may also cause uneven tyre wear, but do not risk ignoring a faulty wheel bearing.

Apart from these visible clues, it may also be helpful if we give you a better understanding of what contributes to wheel bearing damage. The website Applied.com gives a list of these, which may also serve as preventative advice, and for the purpose of this discussion, we will discuss them here.

What cause damage to a Wheel Bearing?

Foreign Matter

Take notice of the fact that foreign particles such as dirt, abrasive grit, lint, dust, steel chips, etc. can cause bearings to wear.

Improper Fitment

Wheel bearings should be fitted properly, with the correct equipment. Improper fitted bearings will only become a problem.

Improper/Insufficient Lubrication

Lack of or improper lubrication generally causes overheating or excessive wear in the bearing.

Bearing Fatigue

Fatigue develops due to the magnitude and the frequency of a load. If your vehicle is frequently heavily loaded, then you should inspect your wheel bearings more often than others should.

Bearing Corrosion

A bearing subjected to corrosion (water, acids, and other agents) will experience excessive or abnormal wear. Always keep this in mind.

Defective Sealing

If the bearing is not properly sealed, it will enable foreign material and contaminants to enter the bearing, causing wear.

High Temperatures

High temperatures can cause premature bearing failure. Oxidation causes loss of lubricating elements and the formation of carbon. The carbon may jam the bearing. High temperatures may also reduce the hardness of the metal, causing early failure. Mild temperature elevations may cause grease to bleed which reduces the efficiency of the lubricant.

Storage

If ever you buy a set of wheel bearings, store it in a dry place because dampness may cause rust. Ensure that the wrapping of the bearing is intact as well. The safest advice is to leave it wrapped until you have to install it.

A final word on wheel bearings. As soon as you suspect your wheel bearings of failing, have it replaced. It is always wise to replace all of them at the same time. Also, do keep in mind that wheel bearings are made from very strong steel and are extremely durable. Even if you hear one of the wheel bearings making a whirring, grounding, or droning sound, it is likely that it will be a while before it fails completely, so no need to fall into a state of panic. We do not advise you to wait, have a failing wheel bearing addressed as soon as possible.

If you require a wheel bearing, wheel bearing kit or hub assembly for your vehicle, then look no further. We at Steves Auto Clinic are always ready to assist you with any vehicle related issue. If something is wrong with your vehicle, we will have it fixed. Our branches are fitted with hi-tech equipment and highly qualified specialists and mechanics to give you the peace of mind that your vehicle is in good and caring hands.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Applied. (Undated). Bearing Failure. Online available at: https://www.applied.com/bearingfailure Accessed on 8 August 2018.
• Auto Repair. 2018. Signs of a bad wheel bearing…Pay attention! Online available at: http://wiygul.com/support/1947/signs-of-a-bad-wheel-bearingpay-attention/ Accessed on 8 August 2018.
• King, Rob. 2016 Do your wheel bearings need replacing? Online available at: https://www.micksgarage.com/blog/do-your-wheel-bearings-need-replacing Accessed on 8 August 2018.

Your Vehicle’s Battery

Car battery need to know guide and troubleshooting

The last thing you need is to be stuck with a vehicle that will not start because of a dead battery. The electrical energy, stored in the battery, is what helps the vehicle to start and continue running. This is something we take for granted; we just assume that our vehicle will start every single time we turn that key (or press that button or crank that handle). Many vehicle owners underestimate the importance of vehicle maintenance, but at the end of the day it is proper maintenance that keeps a vehicle running, and the battery is not excluded from this.

At Steves Auto Clinic, we consider ourselves one huge family. From the first moment you interact with us, you become a part of this family. As a family, we care about maintaining our standards in all aspects that is reflective of a professional automotive servicing and repair franchise. We also value the relationships our clients (as family members) have with their vehicles. Because of this, we at Steves Auto Clinic will continue to give sound advice when it comes to care and maintenance of vehicle components and systems. In this article, we will do nothing less than that, which is why we want to draw your attention to the importance of the battery and how to maintain and take care of it in a responsible manner.

Battery Maintenance & Care

No vehicle can function without a battery giving it the “breath of life”. It is therefore important to maintain your vehicle’s battery in a proper fashion, thereby ensuring that it will work at peak performance. Before you do that, it is important to know that not all batteries can be maintained in the same manner. Some batteries are closed (sealed) systems while others are not, so be sure that you know the type of battery in your vehicle. Your vehicle, according to Battery Stuff (2017), will most likely have one of three typically used batteries: the WET CELL (also known as a flooded cell), GEL CELL, or ABSORBED GLASS MAT (AGM) type. Many people are not sure which one of these are the most preferable. Let us touch on them and leave the preferred choice up to you.

The Wet Cell (flooded) comes in two styles: serviceable and maintenance free. Both of these are filled with electrolytes and are essentially the same. Many prefer the one you can maintain by adding water to it and checking the electrolytes with a hydrometer. A quick word about a hydrometer. This small device is used to test the charge state of a battery’s cell. It measures the density of the electrolytes by measuring the gravity of the electrolytes. The greater the sulphuric acid (H₂SO₄) concentration, the more dense the electrolytes becomes.

Both the Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are so-called specialty batteries. They are more expensive than your typical premium wet cell battery but they hold their charge better and they do not sulphate or degrade as easily as wet cell batteries. More about battery sulfation later. The Gel Cell batteries are maintenance-free and spill-proof. They require a charging method specifically suited to its internal chemistry or otherwise it will dramatically shorten its lifespan. A fixed, regulated voltage source is the best way to charge these types of batteries, with special attention given to the exact charging voltage and initial charging current. The AGM type batteries are also maintenance-free and dry batteries, so you can position them on their side without worrying about any leaks. They will give you a greater life span than a wet cell battery. Just remember, NEVER attempt to open an AGM battery. As we said earlier, your choice of battery will be left up to you, but what should not be neglected, is maintaining these batteries.

In order to practice proper battery care, you may consider taking the following maintenance and care tips to heart.

Clean corrosion from the battery

Corrosion on the terminals of the battery, as can be seen in the image, is caused by hydrogen gas released from the acid within the battery. If you want to prevent a build-up of corrosion such as that shown, then make it a habit to clean the terminals at least every six months. To clean these, simply add a tablespoon of baking soda to a cup of distilled water, and with a non-metallic brush, gently clean the terminals. When you are done, flush the area with distilled water.

Cable/terminal connections

When you replace the cable connections, whether it is after cleaning the terminals or replacing a battery, then it is advisable to connect the cable to the positive terminal first and the negative one last (for negative ground systems). It is sound advice to smear a little petroleum jelly onto the terminals before fastening the cable clamps to the posts because that will help slow any corrosion.

Secure the hold-down bar

Some batteries have a hold-down bar (as seen in the image) or other forms of fasteners to ensure that your battery is securely seated in its place. It is important that the battery is secure because it will help minimize any vibration. A loose battery is a danger because it may not only fall over if it comes loose and short out, but unnecessary vibrations due to a loose battery can be detrimental to certain types of batteries.

Check the battery insulator

Some vehicle include an insulator to protect the battery against very high temperatures. Ensure that the insulator is in place and undamaged.

Battery water levels

Whenever the electrolyte levels in the cells of a non-maintenance-free wet cell battery are too low (the plates are exposed), make sure to fill each cell so that the plates are just covered. Always use clean, distilled water, use a funnel and do not overfill the cells. After adding water, allow the water and electrolyte to mix for a few hours before you use the battery. It is good practice to check water levels at least every 2 – 3 months. By doing so, you will ensure that your battery stays hydrated.

Drive your vehicle regularly

If you regularly drive your vehicle, then the battery should stay well charged. If you know that you will not drive your vehicle for quite a while, then either disconnect the battery or arrange with someone to start your vehicle at least once a week and leave it running for a few minutes. This will maintain the battery charge.

Cut down on short trips

Regular drives are encouraged, but we discourage frequently done short trips (less than 20 minutes). Such trips will not give your battery sufficient time to charge. Your battery will drain faster and it may leave you stranded.

Inspect cell voltage

Consider investing in a good battery tester. This will allow you to conduct frequent tests on your battery with regard to its voltage level. A fully charged battery will have a charge of between 12.5 and 12.6 volts, which may climb to between 13.7 and 14.7 volts when the engine is running. It is important to know the voltage level of your vehicle’s battery, because if it drops below 12 volt, then sulfation will start.

Battery Sulfation

As soon as the battery’s voltage level gets too low, the accumulation and growth of lead sulphate crystals inside the plates is stimulated. These crystals will eventually combine to form larger crystals, and these are harder to dissolve and recharge. The outcome – battery failure. There are charger that have a de-sulphating mode that will slowly dissolve the crystals and recharge them, but our motto is prevention rather than cure. Be sure to test the voltage or have it tested regularly.

Never jump-start a flat battery

Most vehicles have engine control units that monitor and regulate vehicle components. You can just imagine what will happen if this electronic brain receives an unwanted electrical current. That is what can happen if you jump-starting a flat battery. To avoid (or reduce) the possibility of sending an excessive current into the electronic system, ensure that the headlights are switched on if ever you are forced to jump-start a flat battery. This may help avoid electrical surges, but it is always better to consult your vehicle’s manual for recommendations on how to jump-start your vehicle before you do so.

Do not leave lights and accessories on without the engine running

Always unplug accessories and turn off lights when your vehicle is not running. If you leave these on, the battery will discharge. Frequent recharging of a battery is unhealthy, so do not use that as an excuse to let the battery run down.

Replace your vehicle’s battery at least every 3 to 4 years.

On average, a wet cell battery will last you between three to four years, depending on your driving conditions, habits, weather, and the way you maintain it. It is nonetheless safe practice to have it replaced as suggested. It is common for AGM batteries to last as long as seven years, so the choice will again be left to you with regard to when you decide to change your vehicle’s battery.

The Battery Maintainer

If you know that you will not be using your vehicle’s battery for a long time, but that it must be ready and in a working condition the moment you need it, then you may consider acquiring a battery maintainer. A “battery maintainer” is designed to monitor battery voltage and automatically adjust the charge to avoid under- and overcharging. If you leave a battery connected to a normal charger, it will overcharge the battery and that will cause damage. A battery maintainer will not do that.

These are the steps to consider taking to maintain and care for your battery, but you may still wonder how you will know otherwise if the battery is failing? The following are signs of this.

SIGNS OF A LOW OR FAILING BATTERY

Lights dim and bright

Your headlights look dim at idle and then brighten when you rev the engine. Inspect your battery for failure.

Slow starter turn

This may be due to a failing battery, but do not exclude alternator wiring problems preventing the battery from charging.

The battery is more important than you may have initially thought. It is therefore equally important to take care of this piece of equipment by maintaining it properly. If you experience constant issues with a battery, then replace it. If you lack clarity regarding any battery related issues, then contact your nearest Steves Auto Clinic workshop for advice. We have the expertise to assist you. Steves Auto Clinic are there to assist you with friendly, fast and efficient automotive servicing and repairs.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Battery Stuff. (2017). Battery Basics. Online available at: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html Accessed on 9 August 2018.

Images used in this article:

• Image 1. – Battery Corrosion. Online available at: https://www.carspiritpk.com/2018/02/19/guide-maintaining-car-battery/ Accessed on 9 Aug 2018

Vehicle Body Care

How to care for your vehicle’s body

Whenever the average human being feels unwell, the normal course of action is to take medication and/or visit a reputable medical practitioner. With your vehicle it is supposed to be precisely the same, you should care about your vehicle in the same manner that you care for your own body. In fact, and think for a moment about this, your vehicle is not much different (in essence) from your body. It too has a skeleton (chassis), a brain (Engine Control Unit), a heart (engine), organs and systems (pumps, injection, brakes, gears, etc.), and a skin (body). Today we will give special attention to one part from this assortment: the body.

You do take care of your skin, do you not? If you neglect taking care of your vehicle’s “skin”, then you should consider changing that tendency. Vehicles are expensive and their value depreciate over time. This happens because they take a year-round beating from general wear and from the elements. This wear and tear will show if you do not regularly care for and maintain the exterior of your vehicle. Some effort in the field of cleaning and properly treating your vehicle’s exterior, can keep its value higher than normal. Exterior care should therefore be a regular part of your vehicle’s maintenance routine, and if you do not have a routine, then it is never too late to start one.

In this article, we at Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of automotive repairs and servicing, aim at showing you how to keep that asset in the best shape you can. Let us therefore not procrastinate and have a look at how to do exactly this.

Wash your vehicle regularly

How regular you will wash your vehicle, will depend largely on the terrain on which you drive and how frequently you drive your vehicle. Nonetheless, you should at least wash (or have it washed) once a month. Doing this will get rid of any dirt and other debris that may cause decay, corrosion, or staining. It is advisable to wash your vehicle in a shady spot and preferably in the morning, when the sun is not too hot. Do your best not to use any dishwashing detergent during the washing process because it can strip away wax from your vehicle. Do not use old rags for this purpose because these can cause hairline scratches on the body surface; always use a cloth that is in a good condition. Do not forget to apply a reputable vinyl and rubber protectant onto all vinyl, plastic or rubber parts of the vehicle’s exterior. These are as important as the body itself. Use a clean rag for this purpose.

Use water to remove bird droppings

Bird droppings contain abrasive and acidic properties that may permanently damage your vehicle’s body paint if left unattended. You may have experience of this, but you can avoid this by cleaning it with water once spotted. Simply rinse the dropping with water, allow it to soak and wipe it off.

Wax your vehicle

This is a mostly neglected exercise, but when done, most people do it to have their vehicles look good, but looking good is actually supposed to be a secondary effect. The primary motivational force for waxing your vehicle should be the protection it gives by way of its protective layer it provides against corrosion. Wax your vehicle with a non-abrasive wax at least once every three months. Whenever you have to apply wax, use a large soft sponge or cloth to avoid scratching the body paint. Buff the vehicle afterwards with a clean, soft cloth. Take into consideration that it is always safe to check your vehicle’s user manual for the brand or type of wax recommended by the manufacturer before buying just any wax.

Repair chips, dents and scratches before it start to rust

Dents and scratches, such as stone chips and dents, can create corrosion if left unattended. There are many products on the market to address these, and if you want to prevent any further body damage, then acquire some of these and address the issue, but do not ignore these small damages. Polishing/waxing your vehicle may also help to cover and hide small scratches.

Use rustproofing agent

If you live close to a humid area, then you may be well aware of the damage sea-air can do to your vehicle’s exterior. Consider rustproofing your vehicle to prevent rust build-up and corrosion on your vehicle’s body and chassis.

Let us not neglect our vehicles in any sense. If you are not a homeowner, then your vehicle is most likely your most costly possession. If you are, then it is most likely your second most costly possession. One thing you will not hide from is the twin-brothers called “Wear” and “Tear”… They nibble away on your house’s exterior, on the roof and the gutters (which you have to maintain and paint occasionally). They also constantly nibble away on every part of your vehicle. Practice upright vehicle ownership by maintaining your vehicle, and for the purpose of this article, the exterior of your vehicle. If you follow the advice given, then you may extend the lifespan of your valued possession.

Feel free to contact your nearest Steves Auto Clinic for any advice on service related issues. We are the leader in the field of automotive servicing.

Vehicle Performance Upgrades

How can I upgrade the performance of my car?

Wanting more is a typical human trait, and when it comes to vehicle performance, wanting more does not retreat into the shadows. Many vehicle owners want more out of their vehicles, which means they then have to have it tweaked. This practice is better known as “car tuning”, but the more professional reference to it is “vehicle performance upgrades”. This refers to the modification (enhancement) of the performance of a vehicle. Performance tuning therefore has to do with the enhancement of the engine’s power output, torque, responsiveness, fuel efficiency and greater handling. It is highly likely that you crossed paths with one or more enhanced/tuned (tweaked) vehicles during your lifetime, whether it is in person or in a movie or a magazine. A “tuned” vehicle used to look different from a “normal” vehicle, and “The Fast and the Furious” movie franchise must surely be the epitome of this, but nowadays that is not predominantly the case anymore. Many vehicles undergo performance upgrades that are invisible to other road users.

There are different ways to do performance upgrades, and different parts can be upgraded for performance enhancement, but the first step along such a journey usually starts with your decision regarding what exactly you want to upgrade. This decision should never be taken lightly because tuning your vehicle may change your vehicle’s characteristics considerably. An upgrade on one part/system may have a more robust impact on another system (e.g., an upgraded engine – with more power output – will have a greater impact on the breaking and suspension systems). You also have to consider the financial impact of vehicle performance upgrades. Vehicle tuning is expensive and it can be time consuming, always keep this in mind. A word of warning, if you are not an expert in the field of performance upgrades, then do not attempt to do it. Let professionals, equipped with the required equipment, carry out any performance upgrades.

Let us turn to the various components that can be enhanced for better performance. According to Howrah engine tuning (2016) and The Advance Team (2018), the following parts of your vehicle can be tuned to accomplish better performance.

Air Flow Sensor

A mass airflow sensor (MAF) is a performance upgrade part. It is an electronic fuel injection component installed between the air filter and the intake manifold of the engine. This sensor determines the mass flow rate of air entering a fuel-injected engine; the engine control unit (ECU) uses this information to balance and deliver the correct fuel mass to the engine. The bore of a MAF sensor can be increased by swapping the sensor for a larger one from the same vehicle manufacturer. After having done this, the ECU must be reprogrammed to compensate for any change in air intake.

Air Intake

This is usually the first performance part owners look at because it is not as costly. An air intake, also known as a ‘cold air intake’, reduces the temperature of the incoming air by drawing air from a cooler place; it also reduces restrictions in the path of the airflow. This contributes to an increase in power. Scientifically, heat expands and cold contracts. With air, the same principle applies. Cold air has a higher density for a given volume; the more air you allow during the combustion process, the more power you will get. If cold air rather than warm air enters the combustion chamber, there will be more air, which means better combustion. A cold air intake does not only add to more power, it also makes the vehicle sound better.

Take note, if you consider a cold air intake, then be sure to invest in a hydro-shield (if necessary) in order to prevent what is known as engine hydrolock. This may happen when driving in the rain – the hydro-shield simply blocks water from entering the air filter. When water is sucked through the air intake tube, it will most likely leave you with less or no horsepower at all. It may also result in a so-called ‘hydraulic blow’ that may cause damage to the rods connecting the crankshaft with the pistons.

Connecting Rods

Connecting rods need to be lightweight but strong enough to withstand and transmit the thrust from the pistons to an engine’s crankshaft. The weight is important because it affects the reciprocating forces inside the engine. Less weight means faster throttle response and acceleration, but strength should not be jeopardized in the process. There is a variety of rods on the market, but what is of importance is that these may be changed for the sake of faster throttle response, and off course better acceleration.

Camshafts

The camshaft regulates the accurately timed injection of fuel as required by an internal combustion engine. Two important aspects makes this possible: camshaft duration (the time that at least one valve of a cylinder remains open) and valve lift (the maximum distance the valve head travels). Valve lift is influenced by the gap between the intake and exhaust valves, the piston to valve clearance and the intake charge pressure.

Performance camshafts have increased and faster valve lift rate. With a faster valve lift rate, the valve reaches full lift quicker and remains there for longer. That is why owners sometimes opt for a performance camshaft installation.

Engine valves

Having mentioned valves, let us see how valve changes may affect vehicle performance. Let us first emphasise the difference between the two types of valves. The intake valve allows mixture into the cylinder; the exhaust valve allows the spent gases to escape. Intake valves handle cool, low pressure, low-density charges whereas exhaust valves handle hot, high pressure, high-density gases. Exhaust valves are exposed to more severe operating conditions, and hence are made from much higher quality materials than intake valves. The intake valve needs to be larger than the exhaust valve to handle the same gas mass (but of low density). Installing bigger intake and exhaust valves may be a good idea to increase performance. Ensure that this is possible, as an option. As with ignition timing, accurate valve timing is also critical for achieving maximum power delivery from your engine, ensure that this is in order.

Flywheel

You may wonder how a flywheel can have an impact on vehicle performance! A heavy flywheel gives smoother idling and smoother cruising throttle changes but the acceleration is slower than in the case of a light flywheel, which will give faster acceleration. This is true to a much lesser degree on fuel-injected engines than on carburetted engines. That is why some vehicle owners make use of a lighter flywheel.

Cylinder Heads

The cylinder (or engine) head is one of the key focus areas when it comes to vehicle enhancement; this part of your vehicle will potentially yield the greatest increase in power. Cylinder head porting is the process of modifying the intake and exhaust ports to improve the quality and quantity of the airflow. Another stern warning, cylinder head porting is an advanced form of modification, done by skilled mechanics. Do not attempt this by yourself if you are not skilled in this craft.

Exhaust System

A high performance exhaust system has a direct effect on engine performance and engine power. If you can get exhaust gasses out easier, you can get more air and fuel into the engine to produce more power. The Cat Back is a complete performance exhaust system that is quite popular. It is installed all the way back to the tailpipe. The increase in flow contribute to better performance.

Fuel Injectors

You may consider changing the fuel injectors in your vehicle, but consider the pulse duration of the injectors and the duty cycle, before doing that. The pulse duration is controlled by the ECU and is dependent on various sensors in the electronic fuel injection (EFI) system. The duty cycle can be altered by adjusting the fuel pressure and the injector nozzle size. An increase in injector nozzle size will result in an increase in fuel delivery. The ECU needs to be reprogrammed to compensate for this. A professional should do this for you if you wish to alter the injectors.

Fuel Pump

Some vehicle owners invest in better fuel pumps to supply fuel and fuel pressure to the fuel rail and the injectors. The fuel pump must be large enough to supply more fuel than the maximum amount the engine may require to ensure that the fuel pressure remains adequate at full throttle and at maximum RPM. You can increase the fuel flow rate of your vehicle by installing a larger pump or by installing a second pump.

Ignition System

One of the most overlooked systems after a vehicle performance upgrade, is the ignition system. It is important to remember that the spark must be strong enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture. A spark from the stock ignition system that is too weak to ignite the mixture effectively can have a negative effect on engine power. Ensure that if you are using performance spark plugs, that they are of the correct heat range and have the correct plug gap.

Nitrous Oxide

Nitrous oxide (NOS) is a gas, but for use in vehicles, it is compressed into a liquid form in a container. From the container, a high-pressure hose runs to the engine bay where a solenoid release the nitrous into the engine (on request). When the nitrous leaves the bottle, it changes from liquid to a gas. When injected into an engine, the gas will split into oxygen and nitrogen; more oxygen will be available for combustion. To get more power, the vehicle needs to burn more fuel. This will be impossible to generate without extra oxygen. Nitrous oxide creates an oxygen rich combustible system, so to speak. If you consider fitting NOS, then have it done by a specialist.

Performance Chips & Programmers

Chip tuning refers to changing or modifying a programmable chip in a vehicle’s ECU. This is done to achieve superior performance, whether it be more power, cleaner emissions or better fuel efficiency. Steves Auto Clinic have more than 35 years of experience in the field of performance upgrades, and we consider ourselves leaders in the field of chip tuning. The performance chip unleashes the full potential of your vehicle’s engine. With a performance chip, you can fine-tune your vehicle for top performance and economy. We offer performance chips that will allow your vehicle maximum safe power at full throttle and best economy at part throttle. The performance chip we offer can be re-programmed and can be transferred from one vehicle to another. It greatly enhances the functions and capabilities of the original ECU, turning it into a super computer! If you have a performance chip, and you wish to reprogram it, then have it done by a reputable programmer who have experience in this field. Always consider Steves Auto Clinic when it comes to anything performance chip related.

Pistons

Pistons are one of the main accessories of an engine. Friction between the walls of the cylinder and the piston rings eventually result in wear, reducing the effective life of the combustion system. Piston rings seal the combustion chamber, it lessens the friction of the piston with the wall, it regulates the oil in the cylinder, and it is usually they that are damaged first because of wear. Damaged rings allow combusted energy to escape, thereby decreasing the efficiency of the engine. Increasing compression is the most productive way to increase power. There are performance pistons on the market that are made specifically to endure NOS and other impacts.

Superchargers

A supercharger is an air pump that forces air into the engine. Recall our discussion that more air in the combustion chamber means more power. A supercharger is similar to a turbocharger insofar as it acts as an air pump; the crucial difference is that a supercharger is a mechanically driven pump whereas the turbocharger uses the power of hot exhaust gases to power the pump.

Suspension (Handling performance)

The suspension merits some reference, not concerning tweaking your vehicle’s power output but rather its handling.

Off-Road

There are off-road suspension lift kits available for you truck, SUV or Jeep. The reason why owners install off-road suspension lift kits is mainly to compensate for bigger wheels that will improve traction and increase performance on diverse terrains.

Normal

Stiffer springs and shock absorbers can improve handling, especially if there is an addition of weight from other upgrades. A stronger sway and torsion bar can equally reduce body roll when cornering.

These are the areas of interest if ever you desire to do a performance upgrade on your vehicle. Performance upgrades must always be done responsibly and by a trained technician/mechanic. If you are not familiar with this field of upgrades, then leave it to the professionals. Steves Auto Clinic started out as a performance upgrade business more than 35 years ago. We have the knowledge, the equipment, and the staff, to handle any performance upgrade. Visit us for friendly, professional and satisfactory service.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Howrah. 2016. What to tune. Online available at: http://www.howrah.org/ Accessed on 12 August 2018.
• The Advance Team. 2018. How you can increase horsepower for your vehicle. Online available at: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/car-truck-mods/how-you-can-increase-horsepower-for-your-vehicle Accessed on 12 August 2018.

Fuel Consumption Technicques

How to improve your fuel consumtion

If you own a vehicle, and it is not an electric vehicle, then fuel and fuel price hikes are an integral part of your existence and your budget. Many people do their best to stretch their budget each month, yet they forget that there are ways in which they can stretch the kilometres they get from a tank of fuel. If you want to lighten your budget in this area, and reduce weekly fuel costs, then we advise you to continue reading.

At Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of automotive repairs and servicing, we do not only care for vehicles but we also care about vehicle owners, that is why we continue to create platforms on which we can give relevant information that may save the owner from suffering unnecessary costly expenses, but also from a lot of unnecessary headaches.

In this article will look at fuel consumption, or as some may call it, fuel economy. When it comes to practising fuel consumption saving techniques, the mind-set of vehicle owners may predominantly be driven by financial reasons. If I drive better, and I reduce my fuel consumption, then I will save some money that I can spend on something else or even save. There is another driving force behind the mind-set of fuel consumption reduction, and we hope that this ethos will predominate the financially driven one in time to come – it is the environmental impact. A reduction in fuel consumption will result in a reduction of greenhouse gas emissions as well as your carbon footprint. The negative impact that fossil fuels have on the planet, is non-refutable, it is a given, the only thing we can do (apart from going the bicycle-way, or buying electric or hybrid vehicles) is to reduce the consumption of fossil fuels to a maximum.

You can lessen the fuel consumption of your vehicle in many ways, and we will gladly share these ways with you.

Fuel Consumption Reduction

Rob Macgregor (2018) suggests twenty ways in which you can address better fuel consumption. These suggestion flows forth from the responses to many questions about fuel economy he had to entertain. We will use these suggestions as the basis of our discussion, and add to it whenever the need for that arise.

Tyre pressure

Under-inflated tyres burn more fuel, so check your vehicle’s tyre pressure frequently.

Pump spillage

When you fill up, make sure you allow all the fuel to pour out of the nozzle into the tank. Premature removal may result in fuel spillage that you paid for.

Cruise control

When appropriate, use it on the highway or on an open road because it can save you up to 6% in fuel consumption.

Corroded battery cables

These can cause the alternator to work harder and use more fuel. Have them cleaned with each engine check-up.

Idling

Unnecessary idling consumes fuel that could be spent on driving; it also pumps needless carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

Air filter

Make sure to check the condition of the air filter and change it whenever required. A clean air filter will allow the airflow to go back to the proper level to mix with the fuel, and by replacing a dirty air filter; you may increase your vehicle’s fuel consumption considerably.

Engine check-up

Have a regular engine check-up to ensure that fuel consumption and combustion related components, such as spark plugs, oxygen sensor, air and fuel filters, are still in a good working condition.

Oxygen sensor

The oxygen sensor in the exhaust system is a device that trims the fuel delivery; as such, it has a profound effect on fuel economy. It is important to replace this sensor just as you would with the spark plugs, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Gear position

Driving in the highest gear possible without labouring the engine is a fuel-efficient way of driving. It is estimated that if you drive at 60 km/h in third gear, a vehicle may use 25% more fuel than if you drove in fifth gear. Travelling fast in low gears may also consume up to 45% more fuel than is needed. If you have an “instant fuel economy” setting in your vehicle, then watch this gauge and keep the litres per 100 kilometres as low as you can.

Think ahead

Observe your environment, drive smoothly, apply light throttle and avoid heavy braking. In this way, you can reduce both fuel consumption and wear and tear. Research suggests that driving techniques can influence fuel efficiency by as much as 30%.

Lighten your load

Think before you load. If you do not need something on a journey, then do not pack it. Remove roof racks if not needed because they create wind drag. The lighter the load, the lower the fuel consumption and emissions.

Correct fuel octane

Check the manual your vehicle to find out what octane your engine needs. The higher the octane, the more expensive it is. Resist the urge to buy a higher grade of octane for “premium” performance.

Plan your trips

Combine errands into one trip instead of jumping off to the shops every so often. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer multipurpose trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm. Planned trips will save you time and money.

Engine Oil

You can improve your fuel consumption by up to 2% if you use the manufacturer’s recommended grade of motor oil. Thicker oil is harder to pump, which adds to parasitic horsepower loss. Always use the correct motor oil.

Revving

People tend to rev the engine unnecessarily, especially just before switching the engine off; this wastes fuel and washes oil down from inside the cylinder walls. This is bad for the next start up as the cylinder walls will be dry.

Drive steadily

Slowing down or speeding up wastes fuel. Avoid tailgating. Not only is it unsafe, if also affects your economy if the other driver unexpectedly slows down.

Brake pedal rest

Do not rest your left foot on the brake pedal while driving. The slightest pressure puts “mechanical drag” on components, wearing them down prematurely and demanding additional fuel usage to overcome the drag.

Rough roads

Avoid rough roads whenever possible. Dirt or gravel can have a negative impact on consumption. Every time the wheels bounce up and down, forward motion energy is removed from the vehicle. This causes the driver to apply more throttle, and that is wasted fuel.

Suspension and chassis

Inspect suspension and chassis for misalignment. Bent wheels, axles, worn shocks, and broken springs can contribute to an unsafe driving condition and to drivetrain drag. Additional fuel will be needed to overcome this drag.

Tyre tread

SUV owners should consider switching from an aggressive patterned off-road tread to a fuel-efficient highway tread if they are not using their SUVs for off-road driving.

In addition to these, you may also consider the following if you wish to reduce fuel consumption.

Air conditioning & heating

Unless it is necessary, try otherwise not to use the air conditioner willy-nilly. Using the air conditioner places a lot of stress on the engine, which amounts to higher fuel usage. This includes heated windscreens and demisters.

Gear change

We looked at how gear position can affect fuel consumption. How can gear change affect this? It is estimated that if you change to a higher gear before 2000 rpm in a diesel and 2500 rpm in a petrol engine, without letting the engine struggle at low revs, you will have better fuel consumption.

Speed limit

Keep to the speed limit. Vehicles vary at which speed they are most efficient. A speed of 70 km/h may be far more efficient than at 80 km/h, for example.

Gas cap

Ensure that the gas cap seals properly. You surely do not want a precious commodity to be contaminated by oxygen leaking into the fuel tank.

Gliding/coasting

When you near a downhill stretch of road, then consider removing your foot from the accelerator pedal, and simply “glide/coast” down until you need to accelerate again.

Windows up

If windows are unnecessarily down, it will negatively affect the vehicle’s aerodynamics, and that will have the same effect on the fuel consumption.

The advice given thus far, all had to do with modifying your driving style or maintaining your vehicle, but there is another way to ensure better fuel consumption: modifying your engine by having it chipped.

Unichip enhancement

The Unichip integrates with the vehicle’s existing engine control unit (ECU). It takes the data from the ECU and it translates it into better fuel efficiency, depending on the settings and the desires of the owner. By selecting the fuel consumption setting, your engine will still deliver more power than in the standard mode, but it will also use much less fuel. The improvement in consumption will immediately be evident in longer distances between tanks. An intervention such as this makes sense when it comes to improve your vehicle’s fuel consumption markedly.

If you combine all of these suggested methods, then you can be sure of treading more lightly on this planet and on your monthly budget. If you experience fuel economy that is not in line with that of other vehicles of the same make an model you have, then bring your vehicle to us. Entrust your vehicle with us at Steves Auto Clinic, where we have the expertise to inspect your vehicle and address the issue.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Macgregor, R. 2018. 20 ways to improve your car’s fuel efficiency. Online available at: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commuting/20-ways-to-improve-your-cars-fuel-efficiency/article1379796/ Accessed on 18 August 2018.

There is an English idiom saying, “A picture is worth a thousand words”. This idiom is very relevant here when we are about to discuss dashboard warning lights. The rhetorical question we should ask is how many vehicle owners fully understand the meanings of these warning lights?

We at the SAC Service Centre are a caring bunch of people. It warms our hearts when our readers and customers (all family members of this group) have the relevant knowledge when it comes to vehicle related issues. A well-informed individual can easily identify an issue, act upon it, and be a responsible vehicle owner because of a broader vehicle component knowledge base. We do not want to see you admiring your vehicle’s engine on the side of any road (due to a breakdown). Dashboard warning lights has been in vehicles for a very long time, but there were surely not as many as there are today. These warning lights go on for a reason. We will therefore acquaint you with the reasons behind an illuminated dashboard light. It will be worth mentioning that warning lights may vary depending on a vehicle’s make and model. They differ not only in picture but also in colour. The colour is however mostly more consistent than the picture is.

Different Colour Codes

A dashboard warning light may represent itself in any of the normal traffic light colours, and they will have a similar warning.

A RED warning light may indicate a potentially serious issue but it can also remind you of a maintenance that is due. STOP – never ignore a red warning light.

A YELLOW or ORANGE light is usually a sign that something needs attention. This colour is not as serious as the red one but proceed with CAUTION and have the issue addressed.

A GREEN or BLUE light usually indicates that a system is active and operating, so everything is a GO.

Now that we know the colour differentiation, let us look at the warning symbols themselves. There can be more than 60 symbols, but for the purpose of simplicity, we will touch on the symbols most commonly found. Enjoy the ride!

Some Common Warning Lights

Check Engine

Battery Alert

Transmission Temperature

Vehicle Service Required

Brake System

ESP Fault

Electric power assisted steering (EPAS/EPS)

Security Alert

Lamp Out

Airbag Fault

Diesel Particulate Filter (Diesel Only)

This brings us to the end of this discussion. We also have listed the 64 most common dashboard warning lights which you can read by click here. We hope that the information supplied here will be helpful to you. A word of wisdom:

Ignoring dashboard lights are risky

Vehicles become more and more sophisticated and the possibility of faults has grown exponentially. So has the warning lights, from a few basic lights way back to a plethora of warning lights. Always remember, your warning lights are trying to tell you something, and determining whether the message is serious or of little consequence, is sometimes best left to a qualified mechanic. You may greatly reduce the appearance of warning lights if you practice regular vehicle management and care. However, you may self-service your vehicle as much as you like, and care for it in the best way possible, but components are components and things break. If you experience dashboard warning light issues, then feel free to visit a Steves Auto Clinic; we possess all the labour, the knowledge, the equipment, and above all, the exceptional service to assist you whenever you require your vehicle to be diagnosed and/or simply be checked whenever a dashboard warning light rear its colourful head!

What is Vehicle Diagnostics?

Tools and procedures during a Vehicle Diagnostic

The word ‘diagnostic’ originates from a Greek word that refers to the capacity or art of distinguishing. In the common sense of understanding, it refers to identifying the nature or cause of something, usually an illness, disorder, or problem. When we talk about vehicle diagnostics, the use of the term is still applicable.

In the past, working on a vehicle was not as computerised as it is nowadays. Mechanics and vehicle owners, who had the knowledge, could diagnose problems and work on these problems with only some basic tools to their disposal. This changed drastically. Due to an immense amount of electronic components, and a sophisticated computer that regulates most of the functions in the vehicle, diagnosing problems and fixing it require a decent amount of knowledge about electronics. Because of this high-tech state, we are not always able to detect the exact cause and location of a problem. This is where the diagnostic tool steps in to save the day!

Today’s diagnostics tools are able to check every aspect of a vehicle, such as the engine control unit (ECU), performance, emissions, oil levels, temperature systems, etc. These diagnostic tools makes the task of diagnosis so much easier. When we refer to tools, in its plural form, we imply that there are more than one. We will look at the different types of diagnostic tools in use; we will also learn about what a vehicle diagnostic exactly entails.

The different types of diagnostic tools

It is very important, due to the immense amount of electronic components that regulate so many vehicle functions, to use the right diagnostic tool to detect and identify problems. According to Schueller (2015), there are mainly three types of scan tools available in the automotive aftermarket domain: the On-Board Diagnostic Level Two (OBD-II) generic and OBD-II enhanced tool and then there is the factory scan tool.

OBD is a standardized system that allows external electronics to interface with a vehicle’s computer system with the primary purpose of performing a diagnostic test. When a vehicle’s sensors detect an anomaly, it triggers a trouble code that may manifest as a “check engine” light or other dashboard warning. An OBD scanner can check these trouble codes to determine exactly what is wrong, and then clear them from the computer’s memory once the problem is fixed. Many people – in our experience – have little knowledge about the meaning of these codes. Let us therefore quickly peek at these codes, by doing so the uninformed vehicle owner may have a better understanding of them.

According to autointhebox.com, each letter and number in the diagnostic trouble code can represent a different part of the vehicle. It is important to note that the digits mentioned here may vary by vehicle make, but usually they indicate the following. If the first letter is a “P”, it will refer to the power train. The letter “B” will relate to the body, a “C” to the chassis and a “U” is undefined. The number zero in the second placeholder is a generic code shared by most manufacturers, but some manufacturers may use a specific code here, the number 1 may then appear. The third placeholder determines the area of the problem. In this regard, the numbers may indicate the following:

1 – Fuel or air problem.
2 – Injector circuit issue.
3 – Ignition problem or engine misfiring.
4 – Emission control problem.
5 – A speed or idle control problem.
6 – A computer or output circuit problem.
7 and 8 – A transmission problem.

The fourth and fifth placeholders identify which system is malfunctioning.

There are many code readers available on the market and they are usually handheld devices specifically designed to detect common vehicle problems. The most commonly used code reader will provide the user with OBD-II generic information. There are different tiers to the capabilities of code readers, and there is a simple logic to follow here: the more expensive the code reader (scan tool), the more capabilities it will most likely have.

The factory scan tool, as mentioned earlier, is a tool specifically made by and for the original equipment manufacturer (OEM), which means that every OEM has its own factory scan tool. The best option is to opt for an OBD-II enhanced scan tool, because it can complete the diagnostic process on a wide range of makes and models. What makes the OBD-II enhanced model so attractive is that it includes bidirectional tests (actuator tests and adjustments) that the generic model cannot.

You may have a picture in your mind of a machine/scanner, be it a stationary or handheld one, used to diagnose the vehicle’s ECU, and there it ends. What you may not know is that there are other types of diagnostic tools available. You may be acquainted with these but you may not know that they are also diagnostic tools in the true sense of the word. Let us have a look!

The tyre pressure gauge

Your vehicle’s tyres are a very important part and need to be correctly inflated. A tyre pressure gauge will quickly diagnose the inflated state of your vehicle’s tyres and indicate whether it is inflated to the correct pressure or not.

Circuit tester and multimeter

Whenever you need to diagnose a fault in an electrical circuitry, or even to check the voltage level of the battery, you will require a multimeter or circuit tester that can measure voltage, electric current, electrical resistance and other electrical values.

There you have it. We will now touch on the extent of a diagnostic test done by a reputable workshop.

What does a diagnostic entail?

In most cases a diagnostic test can be completed in a matter of minutes, but not everybody are familiar with what exactly is done during such a diagnostic? When you bring your vehicle to us, we will hook it up to a machine that uses software that will accesses your vehicle’s computer processor, sensors, and microchips. The diagnostic test will inform us about the condition of your vehicle’s engine, such as ignition timing, level of build-up in the engine, the performance of the fuel injector, firing of the ignition coils, engine rpm levels, air and coolant temperatures, airflow, crankshaft and camshaft position, throttle opening, transmission, exhaust system, brakes, etc. By manner of this diagnostic session, we can pinpoint any problem areas that may require attention.

Brian England (2017) compiled some steps taken during a typical diagnostic procedure. These steps will give you an additional understanding of what you can expect when you have your vehicle diagnosed.

Step 1: The technician will interview the vehicle owner and document the symptoms.

Step 2: The technician will then conduct some basic vehicle checks.

Step 3: The technician may then check for any service updates related to the symptoms described by the vehicle owner. This refers to failures that may occur due to a faulty batch of parts, which may result in recalls and service updates.

Step 4: The skilled diagnostic technician will then conduct a logical systematic diagnostic procedure.

Step 5:  Technicians may at times need to contact a technical support hotline in order to share data; the hotline may then work together with the technician to diagnose the problem efficiently.

Step 6: Once the problem is diagnosed, the technician will report the findings to the vehicle owner.

Step 7: An estimation of the repair costs will be shared with the customer in order to get approval to proceed. Sometimes a defective part may need to be replaced in order to continue the diagnosis itself.

Step 8: Once the problem is repaired, the technician will run another diagnostic on the vehicle. The data of the diagnosis are usually saved in the computer.

Step 9: The technician will finalise the documentation regarding the repairs done.

Step 10: Once everything is documented, the vehicle is given a test drive before it is ready to be returned to the customer.

You may now have a better understanding of what a vehicle diagnostic is and what it entails. A few last words in this regard. Keep in mind that a skilled technician usually have good critical thinking and problem solving skills. Why is this? It is simply because these are essential skills to have whenever you have to assess and identify a problem in a computerised vehicle where dozens of things can go wrong in a myriad number of ways. This reiterates the fact that a thorough diagnostic scan should always be conducted by a reputable workshop with trained and skilled technicians.

It will also do you no harm to have your vehicle regularly diagnosed, because we hope you know that early detection is far better than costly repairs (or being left stranded) later. Furthermore, the ‘check engine light’ should not be your cue to have your vehicle diagnosed. Practice a proactive approach to vehicle maintenance by including frequent diagnostic scans into your personal maintenance schedule. Some more sound advice; if you consider buying a used vehicle, then have the private seller or dealer agree to a diagnostic test before you commit to buying it. Do you too smell something fishy if they refuse to have a diagnostic test done? A clear sign that you should walk away from the deal.

Steves Auto Clinic is a leader in the field of automotive servicing and repairs. We have all the expertise, all the equipment, and all the friendly faces to give you an experience that will WOW you. Bring your vehicle to one of our branches and have your valued possession diagnosed.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• 2015. What Will a Car Diagnostic Tell You? Online available at: http://blog.autointhebox.com/what-will-a-car-diagnostic-tell-you.html Accessed on 15 August 2018.
• England, Brian. 2017. Understanding the Ten Step Auto Diagnostic Procedure.
• Online available at: https://www.baautocare.com/car-repair-education-and-info-blog/ten-step-auto-diagnostic-procedure Accessed on 15 August 2018.
• Schueller, Erica. 2015. Different types of diagnostics: an overview of scan tool options. Online available at: https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/distributors/product-focus/article/12066051/different-types-of-diagnostics-an-overview-of-scan-tool-options Accessed on 15 August 2018.

The Exhaust System

The Exhaust And Its Components Explained

In this article, we at Steves Auto Clinic, leader in the field of vehicle repairs, maintenance and servicing, will enlighten you about the exhaust system. You may (or may not) think that the exhaust is simply a piece of piping, but we can assure you, it is so much more than that. We will introduce you to the specific functioning of the exhaust, to the most commonly used exhaust system terminologies, to the different types of exhausts used on vehicles, and to how you can maintain your vehicle’s exhaust. Let us then start by looking at the working and purpose of the exhaust.

Working & Purpose

The exhaust system extends from the engine manifold in the front to the rear or sides of the vehicle. It works in the following manner. The exhaust manifold or headers, connect to the cylinder head. Here toxic exhaust gases, such as hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides, are pushed out of the engine by way of one or more pipes. These gases then flow through the exhaust system and on its way out, they are analysed by an oxygen sensor, refined by a catalytic converter and any excessive sound is quieted down by way of a silencer/muffler. By the time the gases leave the vehicle through the tailpipe, the system has made the vehicle to run smoother (more efficient), quieter (less noise pollution) and cleaner (less air pollution). It is worthy to mention that exhaust emissions from the engine of every vehicle (light and heavy, passenger and commercial) must comply with applicable regulations promulgated under the Atmospheric Pollution Prevention Act, 1965 (Act 45 of 1965). This is important to keep in mind when we discuss the catalytic converter, but let us not jump ahead of ourselves. This then, are the primary function of the exhaust system – to remove waste gasses, make the vehicle more efficient, and reducing noise as well as air pollution. There are however many components and exhaust type-references that may be unfamiliar to you as a vehicle owner or even a prospectus owner. Let us have a look at them.

Terminologies

When discussing a system such as the exhaust system, we readily use words that may not be familiar to everybody. To see to it that this is not the case here, we will briefly touch on the most commonly used terminologies when talking about exhaust systems.

Header-back

The header-back is the part from the outlet of the header to the final vent, that is, to the open end/back of your vehicle (the tailpipe). We will discuss this system in broader details later.

Cat-back

The cat-back refers to the portion of the exhaust system from the outlet of the catalytic converter to the final vent, that is, to the open end/back of your vehicle (the tailpipe). The cat-back system generally use a larger diameter pipe than your normal stock system. We will discuss this system in broader details later.

Turbo-back

The turbo-back is the part from the outlet of a turbocharger to the final vent, that is, to the open end/back of your vehicle (the tailpipe).

Catalytic converter

The catalytic converter, normally found between the exhaust manifold and the muffler, have the main purpose of reducing harmful emissions of hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides that may escape into the atmosphere. Catalytic converters transform these poisonous and harmful exhaust components into water vapour and carbon dioxide. It is becoming a trend by several automotive manufacturers to combine high-powered catalytic converters with diesel particulate filters. As mentioned in the working and purpose discussion above, the catalytic converter is there for a reason, albeit a legal one, so it is illegal to remove it and not to have a catalytic converter in your vehicle.

Muffler (Silencer)

The muffler (also known as a silencer), controls the exhaust emissions and it quietens the engine down. It looks like a large round or oval chamber (usually, but not always, found near the back of the vehicle) and it consist of resonating chambers covered by sound absorbing material. The chambers and material lessen the sound escaping from the exhaust pipe. The downside of some mufflers is the backpressure they can create; backpressure can causes the vehicle to have less power and it can affect fuel efficiency. Just as a catalytic converter filters out harmful air pollution, mufflers protect your ears and the environment from noise pollution.

Tailpipe

The tailpipe is the end of the final length of exhaust pipe where it vents (generally the only visible part of the exhaust system on a vehicle). It often ends with just a straight or angled cut, but may include a fancy tip that is often of larger pipe diameter and mostly chromed.

Lake pipes

Lake pipes refer to a set of exhaust side pipes; with these, your exhaust is routed from the manifolds along or beside the bottom of your vehicle’s body, beneath the doors. They offer a performance boost as they have less backpressure than conventional exhausts.

Oxygen sensor

In all modern fuel injected vehicles, there is an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold or close to it in the exhaust pipe. The purpose of the sensor is to measure how much oxygen is present in the exhaust. Your vehicle’s engine control unit (ECU) can add or subtract fuel to obtain the correct mixture (AFR – air–fuel-ratio) for maximum fuel economy.

Hangers & Brackets

Most exhaust systems are suspended from the underside of the vehicle and kept in place by a series of brackets and hangers. More about these in the maintenance part of our discussion.

Now that we are more familiar with the terminologies when it comes to exhaust systems, let us have a look at the different types of exhaust systems and components.

Tailpipe Configurations

Exhaust systems are available in many different styles and configurations. You may be familiar with some of these, with others maybe not as much. First, we will look at the different types of exhaust vents, that is, the open end (as seen from the back of a vehicle), we will then look at the three main types of exhaust systems as discussed by David Fuller (2012), namely the header-back, cat-back, and axle-back. After that, we will touch on some differentiations made when it comes to exhaust systems. You should keep in mind that aftermarket exhaust systems (depending on the type you choose) will come with a combination of header or intermediate pipes, crossover pipes, catalytic converters, mufflers, and tailpipes. It is also noteworthy that diesel exhaust kits differ from normal exhaust systems. Where normal exhaust systems use catalytic converters, the diesel exhaust requires a diesel particulate filter (DPF).

When you look at a vehicle from the backside, you may see either one of the following tailpipe configurations:

Single Exit (back)

A single exhaust tip exits from the rear and it is safe to say that this is the most common type found in vehicles nowadays. This system is easy to install and not costly. Because of this, the single exit system is readily available. It does have a downside because it is considered not to be among the most efficient systems of the lot. This inefficiency may be addressed by considering an aftermarket single exhaust system. An aftermarket system will provide a significant upgrade in performance because larger pipe diameters and less restrictive mandrel bends are incorporated into an aftermarket system.

Dual Exit (paired – back)

You sit behind a vehicle and you see two tailpipes, paired next to each other on one side of the vehicle, staring back at you. That is how a typical dual side system will look like, and it should not be confused with a dual rear system (which will be discussed next). The dual side system utilize the same configuration as a single exhaust system, that is, one head pipe, a converter, a muffler, but with two tips exiting from the muffler. The dual side system usually utilize smaller pipes, which can create a deeper sound. Some dual exhaust system designs features two separate pipes that run from the headers all the way to the tips at the back. At times two catalytic converters and two mufflers are present, one in each pipe. According to Fuller (2012), performance enthusiasts prefer this design because of the distinctive growl of the dual mufflers and the high-flow capabilities of two separate exhaust passages for each bank of engine cylinders.

There is nonetheless a downside to this system in the sense that it can potentially create uneven backpressure. If there is an imbalance between the two sets, then the one bank of cylinders can back up and make less horsepower than the other makes. This problem can be eliminated by the so-called “dual crossover system” that will allow exhaust gases to flow freely between the two sets of pipes, thereby eliminating excess backpressure on any one of the sides.

Dual Exit Side

A dual side system incorporates two pipes next to each other on the left or right side of the vehicle, that is, it does not exit at the back of the vehicle.

Dual Exit (unpaired – back)

The dual rear system (not to be confused with the dual side system), is where two separate exhaust pipes (with one on each side of the vehicle) exit at the rear. The dual rear system gives a much deeper sound, as if your vehicle has a very powerful engine. This system is more efficient at removing outlet gasses than the single system; it is also more expensive and more difficult to install.

Opposite Dual Exit (unpaired – back)

The difference between the dual rear system and the opposite dual system is that the former system do not bend, while the latter system wrap around the wheel, using the bend to add to the filtering process. Therefore, with the opposite dual system we have two separate exhaust pipes bending around the rear tyres to exit out the back.

The type of tailpipe configuration you may choose, will depend on your own preference, the make and model of your vehicle, and the ability to install any of these on your vehicle (some vehicles can only accommodate the one or the other). Let us now look at the types of systems that Fuller (2012) highlighted.

Exhaust Types

Header-back

In the terminology part, we already became acquainted with this term. The header-back systems replace everything from the header collector to the tailpipes. By way of a header-back system, you can enlarge the diameter of your entire exhaust system. In doing so, you will enable your exhaust system to cater for a greater flow of exhaust gasses (in respect to volume). Installing a header-back system is expensive and tougher to install, compared to the cat-back or axle-back systems because you will be replacing nearly the entire exhaust system.

Cat-back

Another term we acquainted ourselves with earlier, is the cat-back system. This system will replace exhaust components from the catalytic converter all the way to the back, including the muffler and tailpipe. Depending on the make and model, they may come with a mid-pipe, X-pipe, H-pipe or a Y-pipe. Many vehicle owners prefer the cat-back systems, and mostly because it is a relatively simple modification, it gives good power gains and better efficiency due to freer exhaust flow. It also gives an aggressive exhaust sound (that is still in tune with emission laws) because of the retained catalytic converter.

Filter back

You may recall that we mentioned that there is a difference between a diesel and a petrol exhaust, and that the difference lies in the fact that the exhaust system of a petrol vehicle uses a catalytic converter, while the diesel exhaust requires a diesel particulate filter (DPF). Therefore, instead of using the term “cat-back”, we use the term “filter back”, because we cannot work from a catalytic converter backwards, we rather work from the diesel particulate filter backwards.

Axle-back

This system only includes components from the rear axle to the exhaust tip. It does not include an intermediate pipe and it is not so difficult to install. The axle-back can also deliver a performance sound as in the case of the cat-back. For vehicles with front wheel drive, the cat-back would start near the area where your axle would be, right in between your rear tyres.

High-performance

High-performance systems are more efficient and more expensive than all the systems mentioned thus far. Specialized companies produce these aftermarket products, and aside from being more efficient at removing and filtering gases, they can substantially alter the sound and the look of a vehicle, as well as boost its performance.

Apart from the placement of the tailpipe and the different types of exhaust systems, there are some other factors that you may take into consideration when considering a new exhaust system, or just understanding your vehicle’s current system.

Mild Steel vs. Stainless Steel

It is important to know that the material used to make an exhaust system, also plays a defining role. An exhaust system made from mild steel is cheaper than a stainless steel one, but it will rust or corrode much faster. A stainless steel system will resists corrosion, but it will cost you more.

Mandrel bent & Press bent

Take note of the fact that a mandrel bent exhaust have bends in the exhaust that are smooth and do not neck down. A press bent exhaust, has so-called dents in the bends that causes a disruption in flow. This is not very conducive for power production.

Maintaining Your Exhaust System

Now that we are better acquainted with exhaust related terminologies and with the different types of exhaust systems available from which to choose, it is now time to say a few words on exhaust maintenance. Maintenance? Do you really need to do exhaust maintenance? The exhaust system is an essential part of your vehicle but it rarely gets the attention it deserves. If you care about your fuel efficiency, the environment and your safety, then you would want to keep the exhaust system in a good working condition. Here are a few headers on how to do exactly this:

Frequent checks

Frequently inspect your exhaust system to ensure there are no holes and/or cracks in the system. This is an important safety feature because you would not want harmful fumes to enter the vehicle’s interior, now would you?

Exhaust manifold and gaskets

Check the manifold, headers and gaskets for any cracks or holes. If any of these are present, it will surely cause exhaust leaks that will affect safety, performance and cause unnecessary noise.

Oxygen sensor

It is important to realise that cracks, damaged wires or blocked intakes can cause incorrect fuel/air mixture adjustments. With the passing of time, oxygen sensors may wear out and become less accurate. If this happens, your vehicle will surely show poor fuel economy.

Catalytic converters

Catalytic converters are not exempt from damage. They can overheat and even clog up, and if you add some dents and corrosion to the mixture, you could be sure of a catalytic converter that will cause a loss of power, a rough idling, air pollution, heat from the floor, a sulphur smell and excessive noise.

Hangers, clamps and brackets

Hangers, clamps and brackets ensure that the exhaust system stays snugly in its place. Any excessive rust or broken clamps, brackets, hangers and bolts, may cause the exhaust components to hang dangerously low. This is a safety issue, not only for yourself but for other road users too.

Short trips!

You usually just get into your vehicle, start the engine, and drive off. I mean, it makes little sense to start your vehicle and then get out and walk to the back and stare at the exhaust tailpipe… Well, maybe that is not such a senseless idea. Do yourself a favour, see what comes out of the tailpipe after you started your vehicle and leave it to idle. Water! Yes, this is a by-product of combustion and the catalytic converter, but this will evaporate if you drive for a reasonable distance. Short trips (let us be economical and say trips less than 20 minutes long) can considerably shorten the lifespan of your exhaust system. When you shut your engine down, the water vapour in the pipes will condense and turn back into liquid. On a short trip, the water never has a chance to get hot enough to evaporate; it will just stay in the system and peacefully do its job as nature intended whenever it gets into contact with metal – and that is to rusts away the pipes. If you have no other option than to drive for short distances, strongly consider replacing your system with stainless steel. It is hard to prevent your exhaust system from rusting, so the better the quality of stainless steel used, the more likely your exhaust is to hold up for much longer.

Black soot inside tailpipe

Back to your tailpipe again, and please, do not do the following while your exhaust is still hot. Take a finger and give it a whirl inside the tailpipe. The chance that your finger will be full of black soot is highly likely. So what happens? The gasses released through your exhaust system, are among others carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons. All of these contain carbon, and on its way out of the system, it fuses to the insides of your exhaust, turning it black in the process. An excessive build-up of carbon can hamper the release of exhaust fumes and negatively affect your vehicle’s performance and efficiency. Yes, before you ask, you can indeed cleanse the inside of it, that is, as far as you can reach into the tailpipe. To do this, you will need to apply a degreaser to the inside and outside of the exhaust tip to loosen the caked-on carbon deposits and rust. Reach into the back of the tailpipe as far you can and use a dry old cloth for this purpose. Leave the degreaser to soak, as recommended in the instructions of the product, and then scrub the degreaser off in small circular motions with the use of steel wool. Repeat this process if there is an excessive build-up of soot.

Did you ever think that a seemingly simple system, such as the exhaust system, could be so complex? At Steves Auto Clinic, we specialise in vehicle maintenance, and we always do our best to keep our readers, customers and every other vehicle owner, up to date with maintenance hints and advice. Apart from that, we also have branches countrywide, filled with specialised equipment, highly qualified mechanics, and very friendly staff that are ready and willing to assist you with any vehicle related issue. If you want something checked, fixed, diagnosed or enhanced, then you are at the right place, just visit your nearest Steves Auto Clinic.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• Fuller, D. 2012. Exhaustive research: How to choose an aftermarket exhaust system. Online available at: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/06/07/exhaustive-research-how-to-choose-an-aftermarket-exhaust-system/ Accessed on 24 August 2018.
• Wikipedia. 2018. Exhaust system. Online available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_system Accessed on 24 August 2018.

Images used in this article:

• Image 1. – WheelZine. 2018. A look at the difference between exhaust manifolds and headers. Online available at: https://wheelzine.com/difference-between-exhaust-manifolds-headers Accessed on 25 August 2018.

Potential faults on the Nissan Navara 2.5

Take note of these Navara 2.5 issues

When discussing the Nissan Navara and the possible issues it may have in stall for you, it is important to present them on a platform suitable for that purpose. We at Steves Auto Clinic hope to create such a platform, but before we do so, we want to make it clear that the issues presented here are real issues, as experienced by owners of Nissan Navara 2.5 vehicles. To add to this, we at Steves Auto Clinic do by no means intend to instil fear in you when sharing these experiences. This article is purely informative; it is our wish that it may enable you to identify possible issues beforehand. Prevention, at the end of the day, is far better than cure. This article furthermore do not imply that you WILL experience any or all of these issues, but there is a possibility that you MAY. It is also important to keep in mind that owner behaviour (maintenance or the lack thereof, and your style of driving) and the roads on which you daily drive, may differently affect the behaviour of two similar vehicles, as will become evident during the discussions that will follow.

Nissan Navara Generations

Let us model that platform by sharing a little bit of Navara background. The Navara derived its name from the Navarre region of northern Spain where it was built at the Nissan factory in Barcelona. Since 2012, the bulk of Navara manufacturing moved to Thailand. Navara is the name for three generations of Nissan bakkies, the D22, the D40 and the D23. The 2.5 Navara will be our focus for the purpose of this discussion, and you may note, as shown below, that Navara bakkies with these engines was manufactured in all three of these generations.

D22 (1997 – 2004)

• Navara 2.5 liter – TD25 i4 [diesel]
• Navara 2.5 liter – YD25DDTi i4 [turbo diesel]

D40 (2004–2014)

• Navara 2.5 liter – QR25DE i4 [petrol]
• Navara 2.5 liter – YD25DDTi i4 [turbo diesel]

D23 (2014–present)

• Navara 2.5 liter – QR25DE i4 [petrol]
• Navara 2.5 liter – YD25DDTi i4 [turbo diesel]

Even though the Nissan Navara is mostly considered to be a tried and tested vehicle, it seems as if owners of Navara bakkies fitted with the YD25DDTi diesel engines (especially the ones in the D22 and D40 generations) experience the bulk of issues. In fact, the GDL Auto blog names the Nissan Navara in the D40 generation as one of ten vehicles you should never buy. It is easy to say that something is so and so, it is easy to badmouth something or someone, so let us not take that allegation on face value, but let us rather verify or dispel it by directing our attention to what others say about this vehicle and in particular, this engine type.

Our journey will start with the Australian Car Review, who presented the numerous recalls of Nissan Navara D40 bakkies between the periods 2006 and 2014. These recalls happens whenever the potential of injury caused by a manufacturing fault or defect, is detected. Every recall affected vehicles between a certain sequence of vehicle identification numbers (VIN); the numbers affected for each recall will not be mentioned here; feel free to visit the Australian Car Review site mentioned in the list of sources for this purpose. We will now look at these recalls, but before we do that, please do keep in mind that some of these recalls are more than a decade old, so the point of this exercise is purely to substantiate the premise made that the D40 generation Navara is a vehicle with many issues. After having gone through the recalls, we will divert our attention to common issues as experienced by owners themselves.

Nissan Navara Recalls

Here then are the list of recalls made since 2006, so get comfortable because this may be a lengthy exercise.

Steering Shaft – Recalled February 2006

There were problems with the fitment of the lower steering shaft. The shaft can become detached and this will result in a loss of steering control.

Rear Wheel Bearings – Recalled May-Aug 2006

The rear wheel bearings may experience excessive wear and this may lead to noise from the rear axle. If this is ignored, the bearings could fail and cause the shaft assembly to become detached from the axle. This may cause serious damage and injury.

Braking Performance: Non-ABS Bakkies – Recalled October 2006

The relay box bracket, intended for vehicles with ABS specification, was also assembled in vehicles without ABS; interference between this bracket and the rear brake pipe in the engine compartment may affect braking performance.

Bonnet May Open While Driving – Recalled May 2010

Vibrations may cause the hood striker loop to separate from the hood and damage the hood latch assembly. If the hood is not securely latched, it could unexpectedly open while driving. Imagine the havoc it may create.

Engine May Stall and Not Restart – Recalled October 2010

Nissan Navara vehicles sold prior to June 2006, had ignition relay problems. The relay contacts within the power distribution module shown the tendency to become contaminated with a build-up of silicon dioxide; this could cause poor conduction at the relay contacts and result in the engine stalling and failing to restart.

Towbar: Chassis Frame Rail May Crack – Recalled April 2013

It was found that the attachment points on the towbar – over time – could exert excessive stress upon the chassis frame rails. This may cause cracks at the end of the rails, or in extreme cases, bend sections of the chassis rails around the towbar attachment points.

Seatbelts May Be Swapped – Recalled December 2013

The seatbelts on the left and right sides may have been swapped, so in the event of a collision, this could affect restraint performance and present a serious risk of injury to the occupants.

Airbag Inflator Housing May Rupture – Recalled March 2016

The propellant tablets in the airbag inflators in Navara vehicles manufactured in Thailand between 2008 and 2014, may absorb moisture over time. This could create excessive internal pressure on deployment of the airbag and result in the rupture of the inflator, causing metal fragments to scatter. This could be harmful to the occupants of the vehicle.

Extended Ball Joints (Performance Suspension) – Recalled May 2016

In some cases, the ball joints may fail. If the ball joints separate while the vehicle is in motion, the suspension may fail, posing a serious safety hazard to the occupants of the vehicle and other road users.

This concludes the highlighting of the recalls, and we have to emphasize again that if your vehicle does not fall within the parameters mentioned at the beginning of this discussion, then there is no need for concern. If however it does, then the reasonable thing to do is to bring your vehicle to your nearest Steves Auto Clinic, and let us have it thoroughly checked.

Nissan Navara 2.5 Potential Faults

We will now move on to the section where we look at possible faults with the Nissan Navara 2.5. The potential Navara 2.5 issues, causes and fixes discussed here, are based on owner experiences and online sources, and as such, it should solely serve for reference purposes; if you suspect an issue, we recommend that a qualified mechanic and/or technician carry out repairs and/or modifications on your vehicle.

Timing Chain Stretch.

The timing chain of the YD25DDTi engine (especially in the D40 generation) has a tendency to stretch. The timing chain guides and the vacuum pump timing chain sprocket and shaft may also exhibit wear and/or damage. Timing chains in all engines undergo wear because they are moving parts; however, with this specific engine the factory chain configuration is inadequate for the work it must perform. Premature wear in the chains is a direct result of this. A faulty timing chain may cause the valves and pistons to collide, causing serious engine damage. The recommendation is to replace the simplex timing chain and tensioners before 100 000 kilometres and have it inspected every 40 000 kilometres thereafter. Double-row timing chain kits give greater longevity and may overcome premature wear and failure of the single-row timing chain. Visit us here if you want to read more about the timing chain.

Coolant Leak – Exhaust Gas Reticulation (EGR).

In the YD25DDTi engine of the Nissan Navara D40, the EGR cooler may corrode or split internally or around its flanged ends, causing a coolant leakage. Due to the heat of the exhaust system, the coolant may evaporate and you will not be able to see any pooling beneath the vehicle. Because of this, regularly check your vehicle’s coolant level and check for any stains around the EGR pipe and cooler. The loss of coolant may cause the engine to overheat and damage the cylinder head gasket.

Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor – Limp Mode

In the Nissan Navara D40, 2.5-litre, the sensor for the exhaust gas temperature is prone to failure. This can cause the engine to enter limp mode in order to prevent possible overheating of the turbocharger. Nissan released revised exhaust gas temperature sensors that may be distinguished by their part number having a ‘B’ as a suffix. If you experience power loss and your vehicle go into limp mode, then you may consider having the sensor checked. It is also advisable to check your fuel pressure valves and pump because a lack in fuel pressure may also put your vehicle in limp mode.

Driveline Vibrations

The cause for a Nissan D40 Navara exhibiting noise and/or vibrations from the drive shaft, may be wheel related, it may also be the prop-shaft universal joints or, for automatic models, the torque converter. If you are uncertain about the specific cause, then you should do what the most owners do, start at the universal joints. Follow the safe route and have it inspected whenever you experience this kind of vibration.

Front Suspension Noise

A clunking, squeaking, popping sound from the front suspension in the Nissan Navara D40, especially when turning the steering wheel to either side, when driving over speed bumps, on rough roads, or during acceleration and deceleration, can be caused by wear of the front stabiliser bar bushings. Have these verified as the fault and have them replaced.

Oil Pump

There are numerous complaints about oil pumps on the Navara that stripped the spline on the drive shaft, resulting in a lack of oil pressure. If the hydraulic lifters and oil light came on while driving, then you may wonder whether it is the oil sensor, or maybe the oil filter or oil pickup that is blocked, or maybe even a faulty pressure regulating valve or oil pump! What usually happens is the spindle shaft wears off on the edges of the flat surfaces and just freely spin around inside the pump gear, not pumping any oil. This is dangerous and may result in damaging the turbo because of a lack of oil pressure. Be alert when it comes to oil pump issues, and remember to change that oil pump after 100 000 km.

Manifold Crack

There has been complaints that manifold cracks are common when it comes to the YD 2.5 diesel engines. The lack of exhaust gas reticulation (EGR) can elevate the cylinder temperatures and in extreme cases, it can raise the temperatures enough to warp the head and blow a hole in a piston. The cylinder head is made of alloy; the exhaust manifold is usually cast iron. Excessive vibration may cause the intake manifold to crack. The exhaust manifold could also easily crack if it were dunked in water, for example if you go through a deep river crossing – the turbocharger can also be affected by this. Make sure to inspect the manifold frequently to ensure there are no cracks present.

Turbo

If the power on your 2.5 dCi (2013) all of a sudden cuts out, it may be that the boost controller is acting up or that you may have a faulty actuator. Inspect the actuator for a loose connection or a loose actuator arm. If any of these are present, rectify it.

On the topic of the turbo, there are many complaints that the Navara have extreme turbo lag when the engine is cold. The suggestion is that, with the pipes cold, there is not enough vacuum to operate the variable valve. There may also be something wrong with the control box that operates the variable valve timing. Whichever is the case, if you experience turbo lag then bring your vehicle to us, we specialise in vehicle maintenance, repairs and upgrades. Feel free to read more about the turbo here.

Clutch

So many Navara owners complain about clutch slipping and clutch failure. Some had their clutches changed twice, others as much as three times, and then you get the owners who can boast of having driven more than 193 000 km without a single clutch issue. Apparently, there was a batch of bad clutches, but Nissan replaced them. It also seems as if the clutch problems are more prominent with the diesel Navara bakkies than with the petrol ones. What helped was a reprogramming of the ECU to limit the amount of power it pushes out in order to protect the clutch. This smoothed out the gradient while leaving peak powers untouched. We should also not exclude driver error whenever we discuss clutch issues. Whether the clutch gives you 80 000 km or 200 000 km, always ensure that you are aware of clutch related issues. Read our article on clutches for more information on its maintenance and care.

Cracked Firewall – Clutch Not Engaging.

The Nissan Navara D40 seems particularly susceptible to cracks in the firewall around the clutch master cylinder. This may be due to the forces exerted on the firewall when the body flexes. These cracks will prevent the clutch from engaging.

Dual Mass Flywheel

If you experience a light vibration that eventually turned into a shake, then it is possible that there is a loose ring on the dual mass flywheel. Some owners opted for a solid flywheel, but not everyone seemed to be equally happy with the result, so many eventually reverted back to the dual mass flywheel. Others opted for a dual mass flywheel clutch kit, and that seemed to iron out the issue.

Injector Rattle

If you experience excessive black smoke when accelerating, jerking and extremely rowdy injectors (as if a tappet is going to pop out or injectors are about to crack), then you may experience injector problems. Consider bleeding the injectors and/or have the computer reset. You may also consider recalibrating the diesel pump and injectors. Feel free to read more about the injectors here.

We do not underwrite the following advice, so in the event of you embracing this, then be sure to do so on your own volition. Many vehicle owners add 1 cup of 2-stroke oil (2SO) in every tank; they say it makes the engine more silent and it gives better economy. The adding of 2SO seems to be a popular option, and you may visit the link available under 4×4 Community (given in the list of resources) if you want to read more about owner experiences in this regard. Here, especially from post 08 onwards, it is argued that if you use a decent 2SO, it will help to grease the moving parts of the high-pressure pump and injectors, and make the injectors quieter. The diesel will also burn cleaner and delay clogging of the diesel particulate filter (DPF). As in most cases, there are usually two sides to a story. Before you consider adding 2SO to your diesel/fuel, do yourself a favour and visit this site for a substantive, peer-reviewed study done to date that does not rely on anecdotal evidence. Here the Fuel Expert address the question whether you should add 2SO to a diesel engine or not, and concludes that you should never do that. It is argued that 2SO is designed for 2-stroke engines, not 4-stroke engines, and that using 2SO in the latter may cause complications. If you have both sides of the story, you may then decide for yourself which path to take – the 2SO or the non-2SO one. We reiterate the point that if you decide to use 2SO, you do it on your own terms.

Fuelling Issues – Blocked CAT

If you experience a considerable drop in average fuel efficiency (as much as 3 km/l less than usual), then it may be that, among other things, your catalytic converter (CAT) is blocked. A blocked CAT will also impede your vehicle’s acceleration and ability to start. If these symptoms present themselves, or when the check engine light goes on, then be sure to have the CAT inspected.

4×4 Not Engaging

If the 4wd indicator stays permanently illuminated and nothing happens when you engage the 4×4 setting, then you should consider checking (and if necessary, replacing) the sensors on the gearbox/transfer case. If you know how to do it, then you may remove the connector on the transfer case and spray it with a good electrical contact cleaner. This may rectify the issue. It may also be that the wiring loom and/or the actuator need replacement. Sometimes water may leak into the breather pipe and cause corrosion in the motor. Finally, always ensure that your vehicle is not in gear when you change the selector from 2wd to 4wd.

Excessive Smoke

If you experience smoke bulging from the tailpipe, especially when accelerating, then it is likely that you need to inspect the air filter and/or clean the mass airflow sensor. A faulty exhaust gas reticulation (EGR) valve will also do that. A faulty turbo bearing seal will create grey smoke and you will smell the burnt oil. If there is an excess of black smoke – then it is mostly unburnt fuel; grey smoke – then it is mostly oil; white smoke – then it is mostly water or brake fluid.

Stalling – Battery

If your vehicle keeps cutting out, then the first thing running through your mind may be a faulty fuel injector, a faulty turbo, or an ECU failure. One owner had the following experience. While driving, the dashboard lights flickered on and off, and all power to the vehicle was suddenly lost. The vehicle refused to start, but eventually it did. Later, during an inspection of the engine and the battery, it was found that the battery tie down (hold down) had worked itself loose, causing the battery to shift. During an uphill drive, everything was fine, but as soon as the vehicle faced downhill, the battery shifted and that moved the positive clamp off the battery. It is always wise to check something we deem as insignificant, such as the battery, whenever you experience a stalling problem such as the one described here.

Now that we looked at the recalls and the many issues experienced by owners, it should be left up to you to agree or disagree with the statement that the Navara in the D40 generation is one of the ten vehicles you should never buy. The evidence thus far seems to weigh heavily in favour of the statement made, but we need to add a point easily overseen. The Nissan Navara 2.5 may last a long time if you treat it right. There are owners of Navara 2.5 bakkies who use their vehicles as workhorses, having more than 250 000 km on the clock, without ever experiencing a single engine problem. The secret… they service their vehicles frequently (at least every 15 000 km), some add an extra diesel filter that cleans up to 0.5 microns, and many let the vehicle idle before switching it off. The latter seems to be an important hint, doing a cool-down after driving. Warming your vehicle up before moving off and cooling it off thereafter, may help to extend the life of the turbo. The point is, even though there may be many issues, there are also vehicles without issues.

This brings us to the end of the discussion regarding possible issues on the side of the Nissan Navara 2.5. We hope that the information supplied here can be of use. At Steves Auto Clinic, we specialise in vehicle repairs, maintenance and upgrades. We have branches countrywide, filled with qualified personnel and high-tech equipment to cater for your vehicle needs. Visit us for a professional and friendly experience.

Sources consulted during the writing of this article:

• 4×4 Community. 2009. Pump Diesel. Online available at: https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/40538-Pump-Diesel Accessed 28 Aug 2018.
• Andrews High Tech Automotive. 2016. Nissan Navara Engine Failure – Owners Beware. Online available at: https://andrewshightech.com.au/tips/nissan-navara-engine-failure-owners-beware/ Accessed 13 July 2018.
• Australian Car Review. (Undated). Recalls & Faults: Nissan D40 Navara utility (2005-14). Online available at: http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Nissan&model=Navara&gen=710 Accessed 13 July 2018.
• Burrow, Matthew. 2013. Nissan Navara engine problem. Online available at: https://www.whatcar.com/news/nissan-navara-engine-problem/ Accessed 13 July 2018.
• Fuel Expert. 2018. Adding 2 Stroke Oil to Diesel. Online available at:
• http://www.fuelexpert.co.za/2strokeoilindiesel.php Accessed 13 July 2018.
• GDL Auto Blog. (Undated). Nissan D40 Navara Review. Online available at: https://gdlauto.com.au/nissan-d40-navara-review/ Accessed 13 July 2018.

Within the above article, potential problems, causes and fixes have been identified as founded on the experience of vehicle owners and repairers, online sources such as discussion blogs, technical service bulletins and SAC experience. This information is provided solely for reference purposes. SAC strictly instruct readers that only properly qualified individuals should carry out repairs and/or modifications on your vehicles. It should also be made clear that the number of times an item is identified within this discussion should by no way be seen as an indicator of a model’s reliability or the frequency with which they may occur. Two of the exact same vehicles, owned by tow entirely different owners, driven in entirely different ways and on different terrains, and looked after in their own unique ways, will each behave differently. As mentioned, this information is provided solely for reference purposes but we hope – in the process of doing so – to empower you with relevant information which may enable you to make informative decisions whenever you experience any of the mentioned setbacks.

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